Wednesday 28 March 2012

Home sweet home?

Jess just asked me whether I was sad to be going home.

After a moment's reflection, my answer was, "Not sad to be going home, no... just sad to be leaving." Does that make any sense?

For starters I can't wait to see you lot. Technology has made it so easy to keep in touch, what with Skype and WhatsApp and email, but, however good it is, I am looking forward to some un-pixellated smiles and some proper hugs that I can feel. So, start limbering up guys!

Oh, and a cup of tea would be nice too, if it wouldn't be too much trouble?

I'm pleased to report that I'm keeping a promise that I made before I left to come back brighter, stronger and happier. Mission accomplished! I'm me but in HD :)

And I intend to try to keep another promise... to engage in a period of calm over the rest of the spring and summer - no adventures, no mad challenges, no life-changing decisions for a little while. Wish me luck with that one!

I will be sorry to leave Central America and this travelling lark behind though. I believe that people are the sum of the experiences they've had and what they've taken from them... and I hope that I've learnt a lot.

But the final word has to go to my travelling companion, Gemma. Her insatiable curiosity, talent for negotiation, organising ability and beautiful smile have made this trip what it was. Awesome! Thanks Gem :)

That's all folks! Adios e hasta luego...

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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

Tuesday 27 March 2012

And the winner is...

There is a clear winner in the best sunset of the holiday competition. Victory was snatched by the sun's slow descent into the sea on Monday 26th March, as witnessed from a log on the beach (with an ice cold G&T) outside La Princesca de la Isla on Big Corn.

The natural world really knows how to keep the best til last.

The water looked silvery like liquid mercury and the sky above was alive with the full spectrum of the rainbow. And it was made all the more atmospheric by the wispy clouds which absorbed the dying sun's rays and created a whole new colour palette of their own.

And having only just blogged about food not doing it for me, I then found myself in food nirvana. The Roman couple who own the guest house, produced mouth-watering Italian-inspired cuisine, including a cheese and mango chutney based appetiser which made me very, very happy. The tiramisu was rich and chocolatey and melted in the mouth... and did I mention the pasta...? Delicioso!

So, today is in essence our last full day as we fly back to Managua tomorrow and then back through Miami to London on Thursday/Friday. As my thoughts turn to home, I know I will take with me so many cherished memories from Central America. How lucky I am!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

Monday 26 March 2012

Practically perfect

I could get used to starting every Monday morning the way I started this one:

1. Wake up early feeling fully rested
2. Remember that there is nothing that I have to get up for and lie there for an hour daydreaming and enjoying the feeling of the cool white sheets on my skin
3. Stir from my thoughts and get out of bed to put on my bikini
4. Walk the 50m from our room to the water's edge. Observe that I am the only person on the beach.
5. Briefly contemplate running along said beach. Think better of it.
6. Wade out until the water is waist deep and then plunge into the cool water headfirst
7. Swim and float and splash to my heart's content.
8. Spy a really cool starfish in the water
9. Return to shore and dry off under a palm tree whilst a nice young man brings me a freshly brewed cup of coffee.
10. Be joined by two really good friends for breakfast

There's not much missing from that picture. I'd just like the National Theatre to come on tour here once in a while.

But before you think it's totally perfect on Big Corn, I thought I'd share with you some details of one of the harsher realities of 8 weeks' travel - hand washing...

A quick tally of how many days we had remaining and how many items of clean clothing I had left led me to the unfortunate conclusion that my hand washing liquid was going to come in useful one more time.

Once the scrubbing was over, I then had a difficult dilemma... is it bad form to hang out your underwear to dry from one of the pagodas at a smart Caribbean resort?

In the end, necessity overcame scruples and our little beach shack has been much improved by the addition of some colourful decoration!

In any case I am mighty glad that I live in a time and place where washing machines are commonplace. How our grandparents' generation coped without and managed to get everything so clean is beyond me. Although I haven't yet tried Gemma's interesting technique of stamping on things in the shower... perhaps that's the secret!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

Sunday 25 March 2012

Missing out

I think it was when my brother announced that the plate of food in front of him was "phenomenal" that I first realised I might be missing out on something.

Since then, I've watched and listened intently to other people's reactions to food and have concluded that I am, indeed, under-enthusiastic in my use of adjectives when it comes to describing whatever passes my lips.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a well-cooked steak or a nice roast chicken or a bowl of rich and creamy cheesy pasta but it doesn't ever send me into raptures. Food can be tasty and put a smile on my face but it is always the experience of dining out or with friends and family that I enjoy and remember more.

The reason I mention this is that I have this afternoon witnessed Gemma and Jess' pure and utter delight at tucking into the fresh lobster which is in plentiful supply here on Big Corn. It's a joy to behold them licking their lips and clearing their plates but I do feel a little pang of regret that food doesn't do that for me.

But watching this sunset does do it for me. I wish I could bottle it and take it home with me...


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Saturday 24 March 2012

Island life

I think you might have to send someone to drag me kicking and screaming off this beach on Wednesday. In fact I might bury myself in the sand and refuse to budge.

Look at it for goodness sake!




I am writing this from the shade of a palm tree under which Jess and I have retreated from the full glare of the midday sun. And we're pretending to only be a little envious of the deep, even golden-brown colour Gemma's skin is turning as we watch her lie out in it! Humph!

It's called Picnic Beach and that turquoise water is every bit as inviting as it looks. It's like having a very large warm bath to swim in... which we don't have to share with anyone else. And when we emerge from the water after a swim, it is strangely reminiscent of that scene in Die Another Day with Halle Berry... any one of us could have played that role you know. She just got lucky!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

Friday 23 March 2012

The best seat on the bus

And then there were three amigas! Jess has just arrived tired but cheery after her epic three-flight journey. She has brought with her Dairy Milk (thanks Avgi x), crossword books and gossip and we are generally delighted to have her with us.

Today I had the best seat on the bus from Rivas to Managua... perched on top of a cool box squished between the front seats and the driver's compartment. It had a panoramic view out of the windscreen and was the best spot for watching the comings and goings of all the other passengers. I even had an open window behind me providing a cool breeze down my back. And I only had to get up a few times to let the conductor retrieve a cold drink!

I was actually quite disappointed when a kindly, elderly gentleman signalled to me that he was soon to get off and I should make a beeline for his seat. A wonderful and animated but wordless conversation ensued based entirely on smiles and hand gestures but in the end I capitulated and plunged headfirst into his seat once he'd somehow wriggled his way out of it. His parting shot was to pat me on the arm and smile such that it lit up his whole face. If only everyone back home was so easy to please!

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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

Wednesday 21 March 2012

A gap in the market

It's fair to say that tourism isn't as developed in Central America as it is in other parts of the world I've travelled to. That, of course, is part of the attraction in coming here but it also means that Gemma and I have spent the last six weeks spotting potential (and often gaping) gaps in the market. In fact, it's become a bit of a running joke.

What this region desperately needs is two intelligent, business-headed women with exquisite taste to sort it out!

Take our hotel here on Isla de Ometepe as an example. The location is spectacular - remote, lakeside, on the edge of a lush banana plantation, with beautiful unspoilt beach spreading out in both directions. And the building itself is attractive - sort of hacienda style with rocking chairs dotted about on cool terracotta-tiled porches.

But they've got the rest oh so wrong. It takes at least 45 minutes to walk to the next nearest restaurant, so the food here ought to be exceptional, right? It's not. In fact, I would struggle to call it mediocre. And it's expensive. We're having cookies and crisps and beer from our emergency supplies for dinner.

The service is chaotic and slow. And the decor in the rooms bland and uninspiring. Which is unfortunate as there's nowhere else to go after dark!

We're the only people staying here.

You want to knock their heads together and show them how the money could be rolling in with just a few tweaks here and there.

But, on second thoughts, I expect if I come back in 10 years time, this beach will be lined with well-run, commercially successful luxury hotels... and will be a lot worse for it. I take it all back... as you were folks!

Walking along 'our' beach this afternoon was good for the soul. We met just a few other people, all locals, doing their washing in the lake's fresh water or simply playing with their children. We also ran into all manner of farmyard animals... a pig, a goat, some hens... and some majestic horses taking respite from the afternoon heat. And it's all in the shadow of Ometepe's two awe-inspiring volcanoes - Concepcion and Maderas.

Carrying on around the headland we reached Ometepe's equivalent of the Costa del Sol. There must have been ooh about 5 hotels... and at least 6 or 7 tourists sunbathing on the sand. We found it all a bit much and retreated to blissful isolation.

Now where's that hammock? Time to work on my business plan...

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Location:Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

Tuesday 20 March 2012

Getting a move on

I'm writing this when I should be packing. We're moving on again in the morning to Ometepe and I need to get organised.

But I've kinda settled in to our cosy room with the stained glassed windows at this eccentric little hostel. It's split level, so I have my own mezzanine with a brass bedstead and the luxury of drawers AND hanging space. So I've spread myself out and made myself quite at home.

The friendly, quirky staff and the little pool just outside the door make it a very pleasant spot indeed... I can almost understand why the Texan upstairs has stayed 3 years!

But, unfortunately I have my own millions to earn before I can retire to warmer climes...

Surprisingly, no surprises on today's scenic boat tour around Las Isletas, the 365 pretty little islands in Lake Nicaragua purportedly formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. We just had to sit back and drink it all in from the comfort of our seats. (Which incidentally had the first lifejackets we've seen since we got here.) Quite a relief after gas masks and tarantulas...

Right, I spose I better get a move on. In 10 days I'll be home and won't have to pack again for a while. What a horrid thought!

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Totally batty!

It's late and we're just back from the Volcan Masaya National Park night tour.

As has become customary, the description of the tour only told half the story and it turned out to be a little more 'interesting' than we had anticipated.

Approaching the car park at the first crater we were visiting, I was amused to see signs requiring drivers to park facing downhill, away from the volcano's rim, to facilitate a speedy evacuation should things get out of hand!

And on getting out of the minibus, I was rather alarmed to be handed a gas mask. But it didn't take me long to put it on - I soon started coughing from the noxious combination of sulphuric acid and carbon monoxide in the air.

This crater continuously spews out its poison and it was intriguing to be able to stare directly into it's cavernous mouth. Briefly anyway!

We then climbed to the highest point in the fading light to see the last of the sunset and get a spectacular 360 degree view of the park and all its craters and lakes, plus the lights of Masaya town and Managua... both of which seemed perilously close to me!

Now that night had fallen, we were off to visit two lava tunnels which have sheltered indigenous peoples and Sandinista revolutionaries alike but are now home to lots of rather terrifying wildlife.

Having already gleefully pointed out a rather large spider and oversized cockroach, our guide cheerfully announced that the probability of a bat touching you in flight is 1 in 1,000.

"How many bats are in that cave?"

"35,000"

"Right..."

Cue me desperately trying to remember what Marie (a zookeeper and my future sister-in-law) told me about Central American bat species at our going away party... it was something important...

But for the third time this trip, I made a mental note to thank the travel nurse for convincing me to have that rabies jab :)

It was actually pretty cool. We turned off our torches and listened to the flutter and swooshing of bats flying around us and felt the breeze whipped up by their wings.

I'm fairly sure, my Mum's just fainted, so I better leave it there...!

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Monday 19 March 2012

The pursuit of Alegria

Alegria. Happiness. It turns out that it can be bought and it comes in the form of my very own rainbow-coloured hammock woven by the team at Tio Antonio, a non-profit organisation that provides employment opportunities for young people with disabilities or at high risk of social exclusion.

Now I can chill out on my deck at home and imagine myself back in Central America whenever I like. Assuming I can block out the noise of the Jubilee line and have invested in a patio heater!*

To complete the experience, whilst I contemplated my potential purchase (i.e. whilst Gem talked me into it), we sipped delicious smoothies at the neighbouring cafe, staffed entirely by young men and women who are deaf. And who proved that a genuine smile and a desire to connect can communicate more than a thousand words.

Granada has got it just about spot on. It does high-end and scruffy, order and chaos, pristine and crumbling in equal measure.

I like it here very much.

*BTW - I can hear you groaning from here Dad at the thought of having to help me fix it up! You don't have two strong hooks in the shed by any chance?

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Sunday 18 March 2012

This English Rose is wilting

Happy Mother's Day! It is only still my Mum reading this after 6 weeks, right?

We somewhat reluctantly left the beach behind this morning to make our way to Granada. I loved that beach. I could have sat on the sand and watched the waves forever but that wouldn't have made very captivating reading on my blog. So, I left in the interests of literature ;o)

I was struck on the drive here by how resilient nature can be. I know this from experience being the proud owner of a peace lily that has survived in my 'care' for the last 12 years - conditions don't get any more hostile than that. But it still surprised me to see trees blossoming and roses in bloom, whilst I wilted and drooped in the back of the cab, greedily glugging down the last of what was now warm water I had brought with me.

On arrival, it took Gemma all of about 10 seconds to change into her bikini and plunge into our hostel's mini pool. She's fast that girl!

I wasn't far behind though and it was a truly delicious feeling to sit totally submerged in cold water.

The rest of the day so far has been spent getting our bearings in Granada. And we like what we see. Imposing churches, colourful cobbled streets and lots of busyness.

It's a good job it's small though, as it is impossible to walk anywhere fast in this temperature. My usual Putt-Eckford pace has been replaced by something altogether more sedate :)

Now, let the quest for an ice cold G&T commence...

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Friday 16 March 2012

Sand between my toes

Today we travelled just 12 miles down the road from Leon to Las Penitas beach in search of a sea breeze.

Within minutes of our arrival, we had bagsied the best hammocks in the hostel (it's the German in me!) and were fully absorbed in a little sun worship.

Once I was fairly sure my skin was turning a nice shade of lobster red, I set off for a walk down the beach. I had forgotten what it was like to hear nothing but the crashing surf and feel cool water lapping at my feet and a breeze on my face. And very happy it made me too.

Strangely (and if I use a lot of imagination) it reminds me of my favourite place in the whole world - the beautiful coastline of North-East England and beaches like those at Alnmouth and Bamburgh. I think it's the wildness of the water and the lack of other people to disrupt my reverie. Although in Northumbria that's usually because the water's icy cold and it's bracing in the wind to say the least! But otherwise, they're pretty much identical...

I also noticed a strange phenomenon today. Gemma and I played a game of bananagrams. It's kinda like Scrabble but is also a test of mental dexterity and speed of thought. Let's just say we were both much better at it 6 weeks ago. Much better.

I'm gonna need lots of help at work to stop me daydreaming :)

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Location:Las Penitas, Nicaragua

Thursday 15 March 2012

A moment of perfect calm

Such moments are rare in life but I had one today sitting on a log in the sunshine looking out over Lake Asososca, following our swim. I soaked up the volcanic backdrop, the rippling surface of the lake, all the butterflies and dragonflies, the warmth on my skin... and made my peace with the world.

Gosh, that sounded a little philosophical, didn't it?! But indulge me, just this once ;)

Today I also adopted my own Jicaro fruit. I can't stand the taste but the fruit itself is so satisfyingly round and smooth and heavy, that it makes the perfect stress ball. Not that I'm remotely stressed... see above!

The only thing I'm lacking right now is a shower. Apparently the water situation in Leon is 'unpredictable' which means they try and conserve as much as possible. But when you're covered in dust and dirt, slooshing yourself with a bowl of water doesn't really cut it. Charlotte - that Sanctuary spa voucher you gave me for when I return "grimy and dishevelled" is starting to look like the most inspired gift ever. That'll be the voice of experience talking I suspect!

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Location:Leon, Nicaragua

More than meets the eye

We're hot!

And before you accuse me of stating the obvious (ahem!) I mean in the can't sleep, can't breathe, can't think kinda way... someone must have accidentally turned the thermostat up on Central America.

On Tuesday we reached Nicaragua, the fifth and final country on our adventure. We're staying in Leon, which keeps throwing up little surprises. Although not much to look at at first glance, we keep discovering little gems which are starting to lend the town real charm.

Today's five star moment was looking down on the town from the cathedral roof. It provided a whole new perspective and walking in amongst the domes and bell towers gave it a certain illicit edge.

The cathedral itself is due a lick of paint but its slightly shabby state sort of adds to it beauty and makes Central America's biggest church even more visually striking.

I also enjoyed visiting the town's art gallery. The works are cleverly curated around the pretty inner courtyards of two buildings and I found myself lingering longer than usual by some of the more modern pieces. I don't normally like (i.e I'm too ignorant to understand) modern art but here in Nicaragua it seemed to make more sense to me than it would in Paris or Rome. A few paintings, and especially one by an artist called Guillen, were really very beautiful.

Tomorrow we have opted to swim in a crater lake - Ososceca - in a desperate attempt to cool down. Apparently it's an easy 45-minute hike to get there... hmm, why do those words now fill me with a little trepidation?!

(written 14 Mar)

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Location:Leon, Nicaragua

Monday 12 March 2012

Finding pleasure in small things

Today is not really blog-worthy. It mostly involved a tiresome bus journey from Juayua to San Salvador, finding a hotel in a 'safe' part of town that wasn't the Sheraton, Hilton or Intercontinental, and eating lots of junk food.

However, having successfully bought bus tickets to Managua, we amused ourselves by thinking of the many ways we could keep ourselves entertained this afternoon. We could play bananagrams! We could repack our bags! We could drink Coca Cola! We could look back at all of the photos we've taken!

But Gemma hit the jackpot when she gleefully announced, "and I could shave my legs!" Now it doesn't get much more exciting than that. Although, I might sign off now to go and cut my toenails...

P.S. This day was not improved by the fact that I caught the last ten minutes of the Arsenal v Newcastle match. You got lucky this time Dad/Richard!

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Location:San Salvador, El Salvador

Sunday 11 March 2012

Today Mum, I did something stupid!

Well it was bound to happen sometime. But in my defence, I didn't have much choice and I am still alive and in one piece, give or take a few scratches.

In the words of the hostel owner when we enquired about this 7 waterfall hike just outside Juayua, "all you have to do is walk."

He must have *forgotten* the bits where you rappel down sheer rock faces and waterfalls, scramble over slippery, smooth rocks, fight your way through thick undergrowth, clamber over steep hillsides with massive drops to one side... I could go on...

The really, really stupid bit was repelling down one particular waterfall. Now, I enjoy rock climbing and abseiling but that's because I'm safely fixed into a harness and know I can only drop a couple of metres at most. I'm less comfortable just holding on to a sopping wet rope and putting blind faith into stepping backwards into gushing water, where I can't even see any footholds. Craziness!

However, massive amounts of respect and admiration go out to Gemma. I like a good adrenalin rush but this was hard core and to do it when you're scared of heights... well, that's something else entirely. Amazing!

So was it worth it? Hmmm...

On balance (and from the safety and comfort of this hammock), I'm going to say 'yes'. Fairytale waterfalls in pristine woodland.

Would I do it again? No.

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

Saturday 10 March 2012

A sting in its tail

Last night as I was leaving the bathroom, my eye was caught by a particular detail of our wall mural. Except that there was something not quite right about it. It was almost too realistic, 3D in fact, and looked very much like a scorpion... and nobody PANIC!!!!

At this moment both Gemma and I played to our strengths. Within an instant she was googling 'El Salvador scorpions' and I was out of the door looking for a man to sort it out for us (and mentally making a list of people back home I could call at 4am if I failed to find one).

In the end, a girl who works here at the hostel gamely swatted it at arms length with her sandal whilst spraying it with some kind of poison. The crunching noise as she then stamped on it was, well, crunchy to say the least!

You'll be pleased to hear that Gemma's research revealed that it wouldn't have killed us (reassuring) but that the sting of the Salvadorian species is similar to that of a wasp. I still went to bed tightly wrapped in my cotton sleeping bag and checked my shoes before I put them on this morning!

Today we have taken it easy, exploring both Juayua and the neighbouring town of Ataco at a leisurely pace.

The best things in life are free and we proved that yet again by spending a very enjoyable 15 minutes watching 3 boys play football in Juayua's main square with one of their Dads. A lot of skill on display and four pairs of sparkly brown eyes :)

Which brings me on to Salvadorian people in general. When I met Tom's friend, Mario, who hales from San Salvador, I was instantly struck by his warm, bright and positive persona. But I'm starting to wonder if this charm is actually a national trait. Everyone has been anxious to make us feel welcome and to help us out whenever we look a little bewildered (which happens to me quite a lot!) There is no better reason to visit this fascinating country.

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

Friday 9 March 2012

"Aspire not to have more but to be more"

I have had this inspiring quote up on the wall in my study for a number of years now and today I found out a little more about the man behind the words: Monsignor Oscar Romero, the outspoken Archbishop of San Salvador, who was very publicly assassinated whilst giving a sermon at the height of the civil war in 1980.

He is revered by Salvadorians for the way he fought for the rights of the poor against both the government and his own Catholic Church and people here are shocked and saddened that he is yet to be made a Saint by the Vatican for what they see as his martyrdom.

It's a powerful story and all the more so for its recency. I find it difficult to comprehend that the people we are encountering each day have experienced such violence and oppression within their lifetimes. The country goes to the polls on Sunday, so it will be interesting to be here to see who comes out on top: the leftist FDLN party who were formed out of the guerilla movement or the right wing party (sorry, name temporarily escapes me!) It's also fascinating that there is a ban on the sale and consumption of alcohol from midnight tonight until midnight on Monday to keep the peace during polling - can you imagine trying to police that in the UK?!

Anyway, enough politics. Back to my 8 week holiday ;)

What a scorcher today! We were warned this morning by our guide Rene that it was going to reach 40 degrees, so we were left questioning whether our decision to climb up El Salvador's highest active volcano in the midday sun fitted into my Mum's category of 'doing something stupid'. But we decided that us English women weren't going to be put off by a bit of sunshine and pressed ahead as planned.

So, today we climbed Volcano Santa Ana. Which pleased me a lot as my dear friends had a little baby girl who they named Ana on Wednesday evening. A happy coincidence!

It was a glorious (to steal Gemma's word!) hike. A lovely steady incline and views from the top which were reward indeed for our labours. A deep crater lagoon to one side which was a colour I can't even describe and a vast panorama to the other side of Lago Coatepeque and Volcan Izalco (which looks exactly like the volcanoes I remember from my school science textbooks). Mum - it was definitely 'scenery'!

After our speedier descent, we treated ourselves to a late lunch and a swim in Lake Coatepeque's crystal clear, cold water. Very welcome!

And tonight we find ourselves in Juayua (pronounced Why-ooo-er!) in a very cool hostel called Anuhuac at the start of the Ruta de las Flores, the art and craft centre of El Salvador. We have a massive colourful mural on the wall and one of the characters is winking at me as I write :)

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

Today is a good day

Serendipity. I love that word and it sums up today entirely. And it was very welcome after a couple of days of bus hell.

Waking up in Suchitoto where we didn't need '24 hour security' (i.e 17 year old security guard with big gun) was a good start and things just fell into place from there. We met all the right people who have helped us shape the rest of our stay in El Salvador.

But as for today, we (well I say we but it was Gemma really) successfully negotiated a room in the most beautiful hotel in town (Las Puertas) at half their advertised rate. As a result, I am writing this from the comfort of my own four poster bed in an immense colonial-style room which has its own balcony overlooking the town's main square. And a hot, powerful shower complete with white fluffy towels. I haven't felt so clean in five weeks!

But our room is just one of today's highlights...

For lunch we had the Salvadorian speciality, pupusas, which are basically corn or rice flour tortillas stuffed with a filling of your choice. The special bit about these particular pupusas though was that we made them ourselves under the guidance and supervision of a wonderful Salvadorian lady, who happens to be the wife of an American who has settled here. We had so much fun kneading dough, mixing fillings and slapping the tortillas in our palms as we've seen other women do so many times on our travels. Much to my delight (and surprise), I seemed to be quite good at it, which many of you will confirm is a first when it comes to cooking! The fact that we didn't speak the same language was no obstacle at all and we very much enjoyed tucking into the fruits of our labours.

This afternoon we took a trip out on Lake Suchitlan, a haven for migratory birds. Now, if I was a bird watcher I could now amaze you with the names of all the different species we spotted but, as I'm not, you'll have to make do with 'we saw a lot of cool birds and some awesome scenery' ;o)

Oh, and we met a really nice Canadian called Scott who bought us a beer and then joined us this evening on our outing to El Necio bar... described affectionately in my guide book as a 'leftist dive'. We discovered lots of Che Guevara memorabilia, a sweet barman called Oscar and two more Canadians. And a lot more fun.

Gosh, the church bells have just informed me that it's midnight. Better sign off as a busy day awaits tomorrow...

But, wait, I thought I'd shock you all with a second (and no doubt last) photo of me. I was very proud of my pupusas!

Karen: this one's for you as I know you don't believe a word I say and want to see me in the flesh!



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Location:Suchitoto, El Salvador

Wednesday 7 March 2012

One bus too many

You know I like buses but you can have too much of a good thing. Especially when the bus is cramped, hot and going to take 8.5 hours to reach its destination. Still, I oughtn't complain. The bus left on time and wasn't waylaid by any demonstrations.

We did have a little bit of excitement at the border control into El Salvador at El Poy. The immigration official who boarded the bus spent a good five minutes scrutinising my passport on the bus and then disembarked and wandered off with it leaving me sitting on the bus. I didn't think I'd behaved that badly at the Salvadorian Embassy when Gemma and I visited them in London in January! In the end they obviously decided I didn't pose a major threat to national security and let us go on our way.

On arrival in San Salvador, we hot footed it to another bus terminal to catch the public bus to Suchitoto. Still hot and cramped but much more entertaining with more of the hustle and bustle we'd grown accustomed to in Guatemala.

What we've seen out of bus windows bodes well for El Salvador. Now we're looking forward to exploring for real.

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Location:Suchitoto, El Salvador

Tuesday 6 March 2012

A day to remember and forget

This morning we didn't even bother to get up to find out if the 6.20am ferry was leaving for the mainland. We could hear the wind howling and the rain lashing against the window from the comfort of our beds, so were able to make a safe assumption that it wasn't.

And when we visited the ferry office to ask about the afternoon departure, the disappointing answer was 'maybe tomorrow... perhaps.'

Desperate times call for desperate measures. Tempting though it was at this point to stand in the middle of Main Street and scream 'get me off this island!', we managed to stay calm and do what any sane person would do in our situation: charter their own plane to take them back to the mainland. Well we lived on Utila in style, we thought we might as well leave it with a flourish!

Now, I thought our plane from Orange Walk to Caye Caulker was small. But this one only had 4 seats (including the pilot's) and just about enough room for our backpacks. Oh yes, no vomit comet for these amigas... instead we soared over the island and turquoise waters back to La Ceiba - and not a sick bag in sight!

Things were definitely looking up!

But not for long...

Having taken a taxi to the bus terminal (it's now about 11.30), we were told that the bus scheduled for 2pm to San Pedro Sula was delayed because it had been prevented from crossing a bridge on it's outward journey by a demonstration. It was possible that it would get through later in the day and leave again for San Pedro in the evening but they couldn't be sure.

So, we decided to go back to the airport and see if we could get a flight to San Pedro (money now being no object!). There weren't any.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, having reached dead ends on all other options, we ended up back at the bus terminal waiting for the 'possible' bus. Doing our best not to be grumpy and irritable or to stand in the middle of the bus station screaming 'get me out of this country!'

The 'possible' bus did show at 4.30pm and we could have kissed the bus driver and all our fellow passengers. Now we only had to negotiate the small problem that we were on our way to one of Honduras' most hostile cities with no hotel booking and arriving in the dark.

As it turns out, I needn't have worried. We played it safe and picked out a reasonably pricey hotel (budget out of the window) and a very kindly taxi driver deposited us there safely. And the hotel receptionist couldn't have been more friendly and helpful.

So, now to sleep, as we fully intend to be on the 7am bus outta here to San Salvador.

Tomorrow's another day :)

P.S. Clarification on yesterday's blog entry. Those are not my favourite music tracks just the ones that I associate with certain significant moments or periods in my life... actually not sure if that's better or worse. Anyway, I told you not to judge me ;)

P.P.S. And I know it's 'love in a hopeless (not strangest) place' - blame it on cabin fever!

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Location:San Pedro Sula, Honduras

Monday 5 March 2012

Stranded in paradise...

... except it feels a lot less like paradise when it's blowing a gale and chucking it down with rain. And no boats are leaving for the mainland.

When I was in Cornwall last September, I visited the lighthouse exhibition at the National Maritime Museum and tried to imagine what it would be like for the lighthouse keepers of old during a storm. Well, now I don't have to imagine any more!

Ok, maybe I'm being a little melodramatic but it's more fun that way. We're actually almost enjoy playing 'shipwrecked' and stocking up on crisps, cookies and chocolate bars. Well, it is an emergency!

So, in the absence of any other form of entertainment, I've amused myself by thinking about what my desert island discs would be. Try not to judge me... each has a story but I'm not daft enough to reveal them on here!

1. You are my sunshine - My Mum
2. Walk like an Egyptian - The Bangles
3. One - U2
4. Sunflower - Paul Weller
5. Angels - Robbie Williams
6. Perfect Day - Lou Reed
7. Don't wanna miss a thing - Aerosmith
8. Ruby Red - Heather Nova
9. Don't go back to Dalston - Razorlight

And don't worry Avgi, I haven't forgotten 'our' song ;o)

10. Love in the strangest place - Rhianna

For my book, I'll take the Oxford English Dictionary. Think of all the new words I could learn...

And, as for my luxury, it's gotta be a Nespresso machine!

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Location:STILL Utila Island, Honduras

Sunday 4 March 2012

Lazy daze

Can someone tell me what time it is? Or even what day? And what's my name again? I'm kinda losing track...

Yesterday we did nothing. Absolutely nothing. Glorious nothing. So much nothing that the swim we took off the pontoon felt like exercise. From which we had to recover by doing more nothing.

Well it is the weekend and we deserve a rest...

The 15 minute walk to the other end of town for dinner was exhausting, so we sensibly broke the journey up on the way home with a rum punch at Babalus and a hypnotic half hour staring at the fish in the aquarium.

This morning, there were a few clouds in the sky and the wind had got up a bit more (tut!), so I grabbed my one chance of not being burnt to a crisp and went and hired a bike to explore the island.

It was a really lovely ride. Several iguanas scuttled out of my way and lots of dragonflies and butterflies flew alongside me. The north side of the island is equally beautiful and a lot quieter with some lovely sandy beaches. I only turned back when I realised that I was essentially mountain biking (they didn't bother to use tarmac out of town) and that I hadn't seen another soul for about 3 miles. Utila's meant to be safe but I have so many of your warnings ringing in my ears...

The only other news I have to report is that I've nearly finished Wolf Hall (Vanessa - it's excellent!) and I'm getting much better at getting in and out of a hammock.

Tomorrow, we have to drag ourselves away from paradise. El Salvador - you better be worth it!

Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Saturday 3 March 2012

Out of my depth

I'm not very good at breathing. I mean I guess I must be passable at it... I'm alive... but I've still got a lot to learn.

One of my main problems with breathing is that I stop doing it every time I concentrate really hard on something. It's like in order to fully focus, I have to hold my breath. Until I'm red in the face and about to pass out.

Perhaps now my fear of diving is starting to make a little more sense?

But, I can be pretty single-minded when I want to be and, having resolved to give it a go, I was going to give it my best shot.

Kareina, my instructor was very sweet and, as it turns out, incredibly patient! Having taken me through all the theory (no. 1 rule: never stop breathing - eek), it was time to get kitted up and in the water.

I guess I should have taken the hint when I managed to put my wetsuit on the wrong way round. Not the most auspicious start...

But once in the water, things were looking up. Apart from feeling very clumsy and not in control of my own limbs, I managed to hold it together and start to descend by deflating my jacket and using the regulator to breathe. It was very weird being so aware of my breathing - it was so noisy and I hadn't been expecting all the bubbles!

Once underwater, I had to perform three emergency procedures. The first two involved taking the regulator out and putting it back in again. I have to admit that it took a lot of stern talking to myself before I mastered these tasks. But master them I did, receiving a divers' 'high-five' from Kareina as a reward.

But it was the third procedure, clearing my mask of water, that defeated me. It sounds simple but I must have tried 20 times and every time it just filled up with even more water! And I know that on several of these occasions it was because I'd stopped breathing... well, I was concentrating so hard on all the other things I had to remember!

So, in the end I had to give up as we ran out of time. I hate giving up but I guess that sometimes you have to accept your limits. Maybe with a little more time (and money) I'd have conquered it... but maybe not... we'll never know! Sorry Sabra!

Of course, the slightly frustrating thing is that the likelihood of me ever having to do any of those emergency procedures for real is very remote but they obviously can't take that chance.

Overall, I think my brain just can't compute diving. I mean anything that requires that much effort and equipment just in order to breathe doesn't seem quite right to me! Maybe I'll stick to hiking from now on...

So, no tales of turtles or whale sharks from me. But I loved hearing about Gemma's dive over freshly-made take-away pizza on the veranda this evening. This is one experience I'll have to enjoy vicariously through her :)

(written 2 Mar)

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Friday 2 March 2012

Taking the plunge

Now that we're fully signed up members of the jet-set, Gem and I chartered a boat yesterday to come and collect us from our pontoon and take us to one of the small uninhabited islands off Utila, Water Caye.

Ok, so maybe it wasn't quite that glamorous... we got Old Tom to take us in his rustic (rusty) little fishing boat. But he did pick us up from our pontoon.

Water Caye turned out to be tropical island paradise. Turquoise water, pale golden sands, pelicans fishing, breeze blowing... I wouldn't believe it myself if I didn't have the pictures to prove it.

The boat ride back was hilarious... well for about ten minutes anyway. The wind had got up and the waves were rather larger than they had been... and as it turns out larger than Old Tom's fishing boat. Every couple of minutes, we would get a face full of salt water as a wave crashed over the boat. Refreshing! Unfortunately it meant that we arrived home at the Lighthouse looking like a couple of drowned rats, which wasn't really in keeping with the Hollywood image we're trying to carry off!

Last night, we sampled Utila's nightlife. I'd been warned it was party central by the youngsters (!) I'd met on the Pacaya trek. Well, it's no Soho, but it is a lot of fun. There is one particularly cool bar (presided over by a consistently inebriated barman... quite a character!) which has part of the floor cut out to reveal the ocean below, complete with its own little miniature ship. You can see loads of fish swimming around and the odd feeding frenzy when some leftovers get tossed in.

We had got together with Rachel and Helen (from our sailing trip) and helped them to celebrate the last night of their five week trip. We even had a little pre-party party on our veranda at the Lighthouse. Giggle!

Right now I am psyching myself up for today's challenge. I've decided to literally take the plunge and am signed up for Discover Scuba Diving. I have a strong suspicion I'm going to freak out and start crying like a baby but I make it a rule to try everything once and, if I'm going to try diving, Utila's the place to do it! Wish me luck...

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Thursday 1 March 2012

Location, location, location

This morning we were both very happy to arrive at our home for the next five nights: the Lighthouse on Utila, one of Honduras' Bay Islands.

Happy for a number of reasons:

1. Because we had spent nearly 16 hours on a bus the previous day crossing mainland Guatemala and Honduras to get to the Caribbean coast. Now, you know I like a bus, but even I draw the line at 16 hours. And this bus was boooorrrriiinngg after all our entertaining chicken bus rides. There are only so many packets of crisps you can eat.

2. We stayed in a 'questionable' establishment in the port town of La Ceiba on arrival last night. Let's just say we were glad that we arrived at 10pm and left again at 8am the next morning. (Don't worry though Mum - no bed bugs!)

3. We had been given a great tip by Tasmanian Rob, who I met on the Pacaya trek. Most people get the public ferry from La Ceiba to Utila... which has the dubious honour of being known locally as the Vomit Comet because of the amount of sea sickness it induces. But Rob told us about another new little boat service called the Utila Island Express. It is cheaper and, as a single hull boat with access to fresh air, much less likely to turn you green at the gills.

4. We were the only passengers on said Utila Island Express, so we got a little taste of the high life when Captain Junior offered to drop us off directly at the Lighthouse's pontoon rather than at Utila's main dock. We're really rather good at the flash bit of flashpacking!

5. Oh, and on the crossing, I had been given cause to shoot out of my seat and make unintelligible squealing and flapping noises at Gemma. Three dolphins had come alongside the boat and jumped in and out of the water in beautiful synchronicity... you know, like they do in the telly when David Attenborough is on. Apparently it isn't CGI. Still can't quite believe it!

But the main reason we are happy to be here is because of the Lighthouse itself. We have a beautiful room with french windows which open out on to a deck with a sea view. And a hammock. And a kitchenette (hot milk on my cereal for brekkie!). And a bath. And a comfy bed with pristine white sheets.

So, this afternoon I did a little bit of work on my other bridesmaid duty. No, not learning my reading, but trying to address the pale lines from various tops criss-crossing the 'tan' on my upper body. Don't want to ruin the photos! It's tough but got to be done...

(written on 29 Feb)

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Monday 27 February 2012

Is lava surfing an Olympic sport?

The things I do in order to fit into a bridesmaid's dress. Today in order to burn off those lattes, I climbed a volcano and then lava surfed back down again. It beat an hour or two at the gym, I can tell you!

I was so happy to get the call this morning that the sunset Pacaya trek was a goer. I know Avgi was doing her best to get here in time to make up numbers (!) but there will be other opportunities I hope...

I've never seen anything like it. After a beautiful hike uphill with stunning views of the surrounding volcanoes, we suddenly went over a ridge and emerged into a totally alien landscape.

It's what I imagine the surface of the moon looks like - black sand scattered with lumps and rocks of petrified lava. Stark and startling. With puffs of smoke billowing out of the crater.

Downhill looked like it was going to be tough going until I realised that you don't use my normal pigeon step approach... you run and slide, otherwise known as lava surfing. Pretty cool!

We then reached our dinner and sunset viewing spot where Fernando our guide somehow knocked up a meal in about ten minutes, including guacamole made from scratch. It was totally delicious, which is strange as it contained lots of ingredients I don't like and won't normally eat at home (Mum - sound familiar? I am my father's daughter after all!)

By the way, fell in love with Fernando (aged 24) from the first time he said Fee-lee-pa. My name sounds so much better pronounced by a Latino! And now that I know he can cook...

Having already bored you with my sunrise the other day, I won't go on about the sunset. It was beautiful and, if you're lucky (!), you'll get to see the photos.

And as an added bonus, on the drive home we saw Volcano Fuego spitting out red hot lava (Jon - wish you'd been here to see it too!)

So, today is our last in Guatemala. We catch the bus at 6.20am tomorrow to Honduras. What a way to say goodbye!

P.S. I hope Ian Bradley would be chuffed to hear that two young(ish in my case) women were discussing how cool he is half way up a volcano in Guatemala. One of the other trekkers, Jessica, lived with his son Andy at university - small world, eh!

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Location:Antigua, Guatemala

Sunday 26 February 2012

Lent - Guatemala style

This morning I was summoned by the bells to Church.

I was expecting sombre and orthodox but instead got modern and upbeat.

The young priest had incredible energy and was obviously quite the orator. Shame I didn't understand a word he said, especially as there seemed to some kind of audience participation going on during the homily!

My favourite bit though was during the 'sign of peace'. At home we're all terribly British about this ritual and shyly shake hands with two or three people in the pews around us. In Guatemala you apparently hug as many people as possible in the space of five minutes whilst beaming from ear to ear! And I'm convinced that one of the ladies who hugged me was 110 years old at least :)

The rest of the day was spent in anticipation of the big event: the Cuaresma procession. After savouring another excellent latte, Gemma and I did some more exploring before retiring to our new hotel's roof terrace for a spot of sunbathing.

But we were soon coaxed outside again by the sense that something was imminent. People were busy spreading freshly cut grass strewn with flowers on the street in preparation for the procession and there was definitely a party atmosphere...

We watched the procession both en route and at it's final destination, the cathedral. The sight of hundreds of men dressed in purple robes and (bizarrely) like Roman soldiers was definitely something to behold, as was the magnificent (if slightly creepy) float supporting the statue of Christ carrying the cross on the way to Golgotha.

Nobody seemed to be in a rush to get finished so we were glad that we'd found a good spot from which to people watch and take photos. At points it didn't feel much like a procession, more like a lot of standing around!

A face that will stay with me though is of a serene and beautiful Mayan girl braiding the hair of another girl in the crowd.

And this evening, we opted for something a bit different and went to the cinema to see Maria Full of Grace. A really compelling story about Colombian drug trafficking. And in Spanish with English subtitles - so we can claim we were improving our language skills!

Tomorrow I'm hoping to climb Volcano Pacaya but they currently don't have enough people to run the trip... anyone fancy dropping by?

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Location:Antigua, Guatemala

Saturday 25 February 2012

Laundry day

Today started well with the best cup of coffee both Gemma and I have had in 3 weeks. You'd think that given that they grow it down the road that we wouldn't be hard pressed to find some quality beans but apparently they export all the good stuff. I can get it in Uxbridge Starbucks but not in Guatemala. Ho hum.

After a productive couple of hours... different 'moderately priced' hotel with roof terrace and view booked for Sunday and Monday... bus ticket to Honduras on Tuesday procured... name on list for Pacaya volcano trek on Monday... it was time to start exploring for real.

Once you get used to the street numbering system, Antigua is remarkably easy to navigate. Or, as I chose to do, you can ignore the map and just follow your nose. And it led me to all sorts of interesting places.

Antigua is a beautiful city in its own right but sprawled in the shadow of towering volcanoes makes it even more remarkable. I enjoyed this view from the mirador at Cerro de la Cruz. Gemma had sensibly vetoed yet another hill in the glaring sunshine but I met a really lovely girl called Melissa from Quebec en route and ended up spending a fun afternoon with her. She, incidentally, has got a whole year off work to travel - just a little bit jealous!

My favourite spot was by the ruins of the Santa Clara church where you could watch the local women washing their clothes in a public pool. Lots of laughter and a rainbow full of colour.

The church of San Francisco has a beautiful courtyard too and I loved the wall inside where worshippers had hung hundreds of little plaques to thank Hermano Pedro for answering their prayers.

Tomorrow we should be treated to the spectacle of a Cuaresma (Lent) procession through the streets. They are already hanging purple banners from all the buildings.

Hmm... now back to less spiritual matters. Where's the nearest laundry? Or maybe I should just join the ladies at Santa Clara!

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Location:Antigua, Guatemala

Friday 24 February 2012

Hippie chic to urban bliss

It was refreshing to wake this morning to the sound of birdsong instead of tuk-tuk horns or barking dogs.

After a strong dose of vitamin C in the form of freshly squeezed orange juice (I seem to have developed an irritating cold), we hopped on one of the public boats over to the smaller town of San Marcos La Laguna.

Hippie nirvana awaited us. We could have had our tongues read, meditated amongst the pyramids, practised some reflexology or benefitted from some ancient Mayan wisdom. As it happens, we chose to drink coffee and sunbathe on an attractive deck overlooking the lake. Which certainly did my aura the world of good.

Lake Atitlan has been described as the most beautiful lake in the world... more beautiful than Lake Como. Having been to both in the last 6 months, I would say it was a close run thing but with the morning mist shrouding the surrounding volcanoes, Atitlan has a certain mystical quality that Como would struggle to beat.

Having aligned our chakras, we caught the afternoon shuttle bus to Antigua, Guatemala's stunning former capital city and arrived in time to explore before it got dark (and enjoy a couple of glasses of Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon).

Us city girls feel immediately at home here. The buzz is infectious and we're looking forward to getting to know our way around a lot better tomorrow. We might even blow the budget and check into a 'high-end' hotel for a night. Well, they don't call it flash-packing for nothing...

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Location:Antigua, Guatemala

Thursday 23 February 2012

Tired but very, very happy!

So, it turns out I really am an endurance athlete after all!

Things I learnt at the trek pre-meeting on Monday night:

POSITIVE

1. The trek is only 46km, not 50km

NEGATIVE

1. You do 40 of the 46km on the first two days
2. A lot (and I mean A LOT) of the 46km is steep uphill
3. Oh, and you have to carry a pack weighing approximately 10kg (sleeping mat, sleeping bag, 3 litres of water, your share if the food for 3 days and anything else you need)

Suddenly it all seemed a little more daunting but, hey, if 2011 taught me anything, it's that I like a challenge!

And you know what? I loved every minute of it. Yes, even those minutes when I ground to a halt half way up a(nother) hill, wheezing and 'glowing' like I never have before! My stubborn streak has really done me proud over the last 72 hours :)

But the reward for climbing those hills was more than worth the effort expended. We passed through some truly spectacular scenery and such varied scenery at that. Bare hillsides, forests, fields, jungle, coffee plantations, villages... we saw it all.

I haven't the time (and I'm sure you don't have the attention span!) for me to describe it in great detail but two bits I particularly enjoyed were:

- the stretch yesterday afternoon when we crossed the river in the forest 11 times and I got to feel icy cold water between my toes. The trails we used are regular routes for the local Mayans too, so we often had to step to the side to let a machete and shovel-wielding farmer, or a man carrying a bundle of fire wood on his head, or a group of local women pass...

- staying in Don Pedro's home last night where we were made very welcome and drying my hair by the fire and soothing a very satisfying all over body ache.

The biggest highlight of all though has to be rising at 4am this morning to walk to a mirador where we could watch the sun rise over the lake. We all got back in our sleeping bags and drank hot chocolate, as millions of stars slowly faded and the sky turned from a deep purple through red, orange, pink to a hazy blue and all the shades in-between. Slowly revealing the outlines of the surrounding volcanoes and the glassy surface of the lake below. One to remember forever.

A little plug here for the group who organised our hike. They are called Quetzeltrekkers and are a non-for-profit organisation, staffed entirely by volunteers. All the money raised goes to a couple of schools for disadvantaged children in Xela. Our guides, Rachel and Matt, as well as being two of the nicest people you'll ever meet, worked incredibly hard and made the whole trek a joy to be part of.

So, we made it nearly in one piece to San Pedro on the lake. At Q175 a night for our room (approx. £15), we could be accused of being extravagant (!) but that hot shower was worth every penny.

And, I'm not complaining, but after two nights sleeping (or not in my case) on hard tiled floors, a proper bed with a mattress has never looked so inviting... I'm tired but happy. Buenos Noches Amigos!

P.S. The funniest moment has to go to Gemma overtaking me at around the 18km mark on day 1. On the back of a pick-up truck that she'd flagged down. You've gotta give that girl marks for initiative!!

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Location:San Pedro, Guatemala

Monday 20 February 2012

Hot and steamy!

Another day, another bus, another smiley face :o)

This time the destination was the highland town of Zunil, which is served by the Salama river and surrounded by verdant agriculture fields.

Zunil has a pretty whitewashed church which dominates the town centre and a great women's weaving co-operative where we did a spot of shopping.

The town itself wouldn't win any prizes for beauty but it is its setting, nestled in the volcano's valley, which makes it worth a visit. Oh, and more people watching. I wish I could carry a bundle as big as me on my head...

Given that we'd exhausted Zunil's 'sights' in about 40 minutes, it was lucky that we also had another reason to be there. We'd heard that the best natural hot springs in the area were a 20 minute ride uphill from the town.

Santos agreed to drive us in his pick-up truck and I have to admit that this new transport mode did almost give the buses a run for their money! A beautiful drive up through lush, steep fields with spectacular views of the volcano. Oh, and I thought I'd shock you all by including a photo for a change ... with me in it!




We spent a peaceful few hours soaking in the hot water and sunning ourselves before some low cloud crept in and spoiled the fun. Fortunately, Santos was there to pick us up again and we made it safely back to Xela on yet another bus.

Tomorrow, no buses, just our own two legs and lots of puff. We're off on a 3-day trek, taking in the 50km from Xela to the shores of Lake Atitlan.* As Don would say, "no problem for endurance athletes like us!" Yikes...

* no blogging for a few days!


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Location:Quetzeltenango, Guatemala

Sunday 19 February 2012

Am I becoming a bus bore?

Over the past two days it has become obvious to me why the Guatemalan people take their religion so seriously. Miracles are performed daily by 'chicken' bus drivers who against the odds somehow manage to negotiate crumbling road surfaces and perilous corners to get their passengers to their destinations alive. And they don't do it by halves, hurtling past other traffic at great speed whilst yanking the chain to blast their horns. Oh, and with twice as many people on the bus than actually fit!

Apparently I'm not the only one to have spotted the need for a strong faith when embarking on bus travel here. Both yesterday and today we've had missionaries animatedly preaching the word of God to us from the front of the bus. As well as umpteen food vendors jumping on to sell their wares at any opportunity. And at times both competing together with the shouts of the bus conductor and whatever music the driver fancies listening to.

Breaking down isn't an issue for these miracle workers either. Out comes the tool box and after a few tweaks with the right spanner, you're on your way again.

I don't think the smile left my face the whole 7 hours we've spent on buses in the last 48 hours. The adrenaline junkie in me has definitely had her fix and there was just so much to see both on the bus and from the window that I was continually entertained. I even spent a cosy hour wedged in between two young men who'd had the foresight to wear woolly jumpers that kept my arms nice and toasty!

The bus ride would have sufficed in itself but our destination, Chicicastenango (which I can now spell and say correctly... I think) also turned out to be extraordinary. The town is famous for hosting Central America's biggest and most vibrant indigenous market.

The contrast between yesterday when we arrived and checked into a hostel for the night and this morning when we rose early to watch the traders set up could not have been more marked.

Yesterday we struggled to find an open cafe or restaurant for lunch and the town seemed sleepy and quiet. Whereas this morning it was impossible to move for stalls selling anything and everything you could ever possibly need.

It was a total feast for the eyes, ears and nose! Beautiful and fragrant flowers, local women mixing dough and making tortillas, traditional Mayan ceremonies taking place on the church steps, old women and children alike carrying huge bundles on their heads... we witnessed it all and much more besides.

Wonderful people watching and a real slice of real life. I even did a bit of bargaining in Spanish for a couple of trinkets. My Granny would have been proud!

I'm not entirely sure that my internal organs are yet to return to their rightful positions but that seems a small price to pay for such a rich experience,

As Gemma said earlier, "This feels more like travelling and less like being on a Caribbean holiday!"

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Location:Quetzeltenango, Guatemala

Friday 17 February 2012

Crispy fried chicken and hot chocolate

So, the buses then... well, you were warned...

I can confirm that deluxe does indeed mean deluxe - hurrah! I had a reasonably roomy reclining seat and the air con worked. There was even a functioning toilet (although admittedly you wouldn't want to go anywhere near it after a few hours in - I'll spare you details!)

The journey was reasonably uneventful apart from one incident at about 4am where we basically ground to a complete halt on the road and didn't move for nearly an hour. This provoked a rather animated response from our bus driver - lots of latin gesticulations and hurrumphing - but there didn't seem to be much we could do other than wait for the rather official (and officious) looking people in the cars with flashing lights to let us pass. On the bright side, I'd rather official looking people were blocking our path than any other kind!

As a result, we pulled into the bus station in Guatemala City an hour late, convinced that we'd missed our connection to Xela, but luck was on our side and we had just made it. So, in terms of minimising our time in GC, we did pretty well. I think we spent all of about 10 minutes breathing its air before another 4 hour bus ride. Although, from what I could see from the window, it looked like a perfectly normal city with normal people going about normal business. The way people go on about it, I'd almost expected to be dodging bullets!

We arrived into Xela late morning and have spent a really enjoyable afternoon. It's noticeably cooler here which meant that indulging in an authentic Mayan hot chocolate at La Luna didn't seem like such a ridiculous idea. It was totally mouth-watering... just sweet enough with just the right amount of chilli to give it flavour but not overpower the chocolate. A little taste of heaven.

At the other end of the culinary scale, today saw our first visit to Pollo Campero, Guatemala's (superior) answer to KFC. It's totally ubiquitous and somewhat of a national institution, so had to be done! Mmmm... chicken nuggets and chips!

Otherwise, we have been wandering the streets and soaking up the atmosphere in the town's central park. A great spot for people watching and for Gemma to take lots of wonderful photographs. The traditional colourful dress of the Mayan women is beautiful and the men look so effortlessly cool in their cowboy hats!

And sorry to hark back to Valentine's Day but I read something that made me smile today in a magazine we picked up in our hostel. Apparently many Guatemalans pick a 'secret friend' (acquaintance, coworker, neighbour) and buy them a little Valentine's gift to show their appreciation and in the hope of getting to know them better. Cheesy? Maybe, but the romantic in me thinks it's a lovely idea and just one example of how generous the majority of the people seem to be here.

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Location:Quetzeltenango, Guatemala

Thursday 16 February 2012

Alone amongst the ruins

The main hazard we've experienced in Guatemala thus far was on our pre-dawn bus ride to Tikal this morning - we both nearly choked to death from exhaust fume inhalation! Fortunately we were able to make up for this by spending all day wandering through the jungle amongst spectacular Mayan ruins.

We opted to go it alone without a guide, which turned out to be an inspired decision. We had whole blocks of time when we didn't see another soul and even managed a few minutes alone at the summit of Temple IV, looking down over the entire complex with the tops of the other temples peeking out from the jungle canopy through the mist. Ethereal.

We also had an up close and personal encounter with a family of coatis who were foraging for food and spotted our fair share of monkeys causing mischief up above our heads.

Tikal is just one of those places that you know will stick with you in your memory forever. The wildlife, flora and ruins makes for a heady combination.

This evening we have been chilling out in preparation for catching the night bus to Guatemala City which leaves at 9.30pm. We are assured that it is 'deluxe' ... I hope that means air conditioned as it is very, very hot here!

From Guatemala City, we plan to switch straight to another bus to take us to Quetzeltenengo (also known as Xela). So, you've been warned, the next post will be a lot of 'bus talk'!

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Location:Flores, Guatemala

Wednesday 15 February 2012

Buenos Dias Guatemala!

To be honest, I wasn't sorry to leave San Ignacio behind this morning. When the best thing you can say about a place is that it does a good boiled egg, you know it's time to move on...

A 'taxi' ride later and we were at the Guatemalan border. Polite, if a little stern, officials stamped all the right bits of paper for us and we were on our way.

The minibus ride to Flores was a rich experience. Only parts of the road were tarmaced, so for the stretches that weren't, we bumped and jumped our way along missing as many of the potholes as possible. The landscape strangely feels noticeably different - very lush and agricultural - and we saw some lovely scenes of people going about their day-to-lives in the little settlements we passed.

Our first glimpse of the lake here at Flores was pretty spectacular and much to our delight we were given a room in our hotel with a stunning lake view.

We've spent the afternoon acquainting ourselves with this fascinating and picturesque little town and finished the day by watching the sunset from Il Terazzo, an amazing little restaurant just next to where we're staying. We also spied Helen and Rachel (fellow Raggamuffin sailors) from our birdseye post, so have had a lovely evening catching up.

Right, I better call it a night. We rise at 4am in the morning to catch a bus to the ancient Mayan settlement of Tikal. So, I will tell my newly acquired Guatemalan worry doll what's on my mind (won't take long!) and pop her under my pillow. Goodnight!

P.S. I don't know what all the fuss about safety was for. The policemen with machine guns who stopped our minibus at a checkpoint were very smiley and the bar we went to for lunch had a strict 'no firearms' policy ;o)


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Location:Flores, Guatemala

Tuesday 14 February 2012

Bye bye Belize

Today I fell in the river and had my knickers stolen by a monkey.. . at the special request of the Silk Family!

Not really. But if I wrote that we caught three buses to get to San Ignacio and then spent the afternoon visiting the post office and planning the next leg of our journey into Guatemala, you might get bored and stop reading ;)

So, it's bye bye Belize. I've fallen in love with you and hope to see you again sometime.

Bring on country number 2!

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Location:San Ignacio, Belize

Monday 13 February 2012

Hammock time

Phew! Not blown out to sea in the middle of the night. Instead woke this morning to a warm breeze and sunshine.

Today has been a quiet day. Placencia is a sleepy place and we've made the most of the opportunity to store up energy for a busy few days ahead.

Gemma and I have been lost in our worlds a little bit - reading, listening to the waves, dozing... did I mention that we have our private hammock outside our cabana? I think when I get home I might lose the double bed and install one of my own. Just not sure how I'm going to recreate the view.

Tonight we're heading out to the Barefoot Bar and then Omar's for red snapper or coconut barracuda curry. Yum.

And tomorrow's Valentine's Day. Luckily I feel like the heart healing crystal given to me by a very good friend is starting to work its magic...

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Location:Placencia, Belize

Desert island bliss

We set sail on the Ragga Queen on Friday morning to a backdrop of clear blue skies and glorious sunshine. Having waved goodbye to Colindas on the way past we settled in for a relaxing day of sunbathing, snorkelling and generally staring out to sea. The first thing we saw was one of the other Cayes. This hosts the only golf course in Belize and is a favourite haunt of Bill Clinton and Tiger Woods. No wonder... from where we were sitting, it looked too good to be true. Oh, and it's up for sale, so if you don't fancy buying me the flying lesson for my birthday...

Our first snorkel stop on the reef was a little challenging for me as I'm not overly at home in the water but Gemma stuck with me and helped me out loads so I was able to see some beautiful fish and coral formations.

We also saw our first dolphin on Friday. It swam about the bow of the boat for a bit, much to my and everyone else's delight. We also spotted others later on the trip but this first one sticks out in my memory most.

Our home for the night, Rendevouz Caye, turned out to be a dreamy and truly deserted desert island. And at just 12 metres wide we were able to make the most of having it entirely to ourselves. We went for a snorkel off the beach whilst the crew set up our tents and this time I was able to relax a little more and enjoy this beautiful underwater world.

After dinner, we drank rum punch around the fire and watched a spectacular moon rise over the water. All in all, a magical day.

But we woke in the middle of the night to what sounded like a hurricane blowing through our tent. We didn't see that coming!

By the morning, it had calmed down a little and we set sail again after breakfast under an overcast sky. I have to admit that I skipped the snorkelling on Saturday. The waters were a bit choppier because of the wind and I didn't want to be the weakest link in amongst a bunch of strong swimmers.

I did enjoy my time up on deck though but it turns out that the sky was deceptively overcast as I now have a red leg, two red feet and a red chest and back to go with my nose. You can definitely see me coming!

Tobacco Caye was our destination on Saturday and a very different island to the night before. This Caye has a few inhabitants and felt a bit like an ex hippy hangout! We settled in for an evening of freshly caught lobster which I was not that sure about given my dislike of seafood, so couldn't believe my luck when one of the extra dishes turned out to be Macaroni Cheese! First cheesy pasta of the trip tasted every bit as good as I remembered :)

We finished the night dancing to the drums at one of the islands two bars.

Again though we were woken in the night to the sound of strong winds but this time accompanied by torrential rain. Unfortunately this storm had settled in for the day, so, we've spent a fair few hours huddled inside the boat with only a handful of brave souls risking a dip in the ocean.

Overall though, I really loved being on the boat. Ok, so today's weather isn't what we ordered but on the plus side our boat and crew got to do what they do best: sail. I found the experience of cutting through the waves exhilarating - well, once I'd worked out to hold on tight and focus on the horizon anyway!

Our crew, Captain Kimani, Shane and Dane (yes, they rhyme!) were real live wires and worked hard for us as well as having a lot of fun. And the rest of the group were great to be around. I'm sure we'll bump into some of them again.

Right now though, we're sitting in our roomy cabana on the beach in Placencia listening to the wind howl through the palm trees and the waves pound the shore. I'm kinda expecting Toto and the the Tinman to make an appearance. We're definitely not in Kansas now...!

(btw this place doesn't have WiFi, so, if you're reading this, we didn't get blown away!)

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Location:Placencia, Belize

Thursday 9 February 2012

Slow news day

I like a hammock. Ok, I may not quite have mastered getting in and out of one like a lady but there is definitely something special about lying in your own little cocoon being gently rocked by the sea breeze.

Today's news then: I have a sunburnt nose. That's it. We've had a crazy day in paradise...

I'd be loathed to leave if I wasn't getting on a beautiful boat tomorrow to sail down the coast. Might try and learn the ropes if the crew are willing (pun intended). Would really like to climb the mast but have a sneaking suspicion that this might contravene my Mum's single rule for this trip: "Don't do anything stupid!"

Anyway, apparently sail boats don't have WiFi so I'm signing off until Sunday at the earliest.

Wish I could send you all some Belizean sun to keep you warm in the snow.

Location:A hammock on Caye Caulker

Wednesday 8 February 2012

Seaduced by Belize?...

...read a sign outside one of the dive schools on Caye Ambergris. The answer is a resounding and unequivocal 'yes!'

Today is the day I breathed out and felt the weight of the world leave my body. It happened whilst lying in a hammock looking out at the ocean at the end of our cabanas' private pontoon. And it feels so good.

Our flight this morning exceeded all expectations. Things got off to a good start when our taxi driver to the airport turned out to be a lot of fun and very proud to tell us a bit more about his country. The airline guy at the airport was equally friendly and chatty but then we've almost come to expect that now... the Belizeans are wonderful people.

We were two of the three passengers on our 7-seater aeroplane. And as we waited on the airstrip we were both practically jumping up and down with the anticipation. No 100ml liquid rules or security pat downs here, just a friendly 'hello' from the pilot and a 'would you mind popping your seatbelts on' ladies?' As we took off and soared through the skies to San Pedro, my impossibly big smile got even bigger. Awesome. Simply awesome. Anyone want to buy me a flying lesson for birthday?

Caye Ambergris was our first taste of this Caribbean paradise. We drank coffee in a beach bar as water lapped at the boats and thanked our lucky stars. Then we boarded the boat to the smaller Caye Caulker and made our way to Colindas Cabanas, our home for the next two nights.

People kept asking me if I thought I'd want to come home again after this trip. Hmmm...

*Happy sigh*

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Location:Caye Caulker, Belize

A smile from a crocodile

Our boat trip along New River to Lamanaii yesterday was nothing short of enchanting. The Spanish when they came to the Americas believed that the Mayans had taught animals to speak and it definitely felt like the wildlife here had a story to tell.

Lamanaii means 'submerged crocodile' in Mayan and it didn't take long before we understood why!

Antonio, our boat driver, had x-ray vision it seemed and before long we had seen our first croc. My favourite though has to be the little one we saw next basking on a log with his mouth open in a broad grin! During the next couple of hours, we also saw colourful iguanas, bats and a plethora of birdlife. Fascinating.

On arrival at Lamanaii we were treated to a delicious lunch and a selection of juices, including the intriguingly named 'sky juice' - took us a while to work out that it was water. D'oh!

We had been warned by the book, several other travellers and the tour company to bring bug spray. Cue total paranoia or the adoption of sensible precautions depending on how you like to look at it. Let's just say that Gemma looked particularly fetching with her trousers stuffed into her socks and I managed somehow not to pass out from the effects of wearing a (clashing) t-shirt, shirt and scarf in tropical temperatures! Don't be surprised if photos are edited...

I'd love to be able to tell you lots about this interesting Mayan settlement but our guide was so 'thorough' that I kinda stopped listening and just tried to soak up the feel of the place instead.

Standing at the top of the High temple looking out over the lush jungle canopy towards the river with the screech of the howler monkeys as the only sound... now that's the kind of experience I came all this way for!

The ride back was exhilarating. Antonio drove our little motor boat more like it was a motorbike so we had the thrill of leaning into the corners as we skimmed the perfectly still waters. Well, still until a boa constrictor or crocodile popped their heads up for air.

We then stopped off for what has to go down as the funniest moment to date. Antonio handed out some bananas ostensibly as a snack. (This is where I know my Mum is going to finally be pleased that I don't like bananas and had turned mine down!) Suddenly there was a real commotion in the trees and a couple of spider monkeys appeared from nowhere, climbed on to the boat and started pinching them out of people's hands. We didn't know whether to laugh or scream so it ended up being a rather hilarious combination of the two! When one was standing on my lap, I finally felt that the £175 I'd paid for my rabies jabs was money well spen! So, so funny!

Lastly, I'm no twitcher but watching a blue heron take flight over the water or an osprey circling overhead is a privilege and very, very special way to end a day.

Talking about flying, today we're taking a sea plane out of here. I don't think I've ever been on anything smaller than a 737 so am more than a little excited. Wonder if they'll let me drive...




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Location:Orange Walk, Belize

Monday 6 February 2012

You'd better Belize it!

Ear-to-ear smiles today in the Hartley-Brown camp. It started well with scrambled eggs and hash browns and somehow got better.

I have to admit that being told at Miami International that I was a high priority passenger was nice (I love that silver card!) but I was mostly just proud that I managed to get on the plane without giving into a venti extra shot latte urge at Starbucks.

And what a flight! Fortunately it was three-quarters empty so both Gem and I got window seats and could both fully appreciate the beauty of our approach into Belize City airport. Turquoise waters glimpsed through perfect fluffy white clouds... we knew already that we were going to love this country.

Stepping off the plane onto the tarmac and feeling a rush of warmth flow through our bodies was the only validation we needed!

A taxi and bus ride later and we find ourselves up north in Orange Walk. Despite the ricketiness of the bus we enjoyed every minute, soaking up the scenery and the everyday scenes of people getting on and off.

Everyone has been so friendly and we've already struck up a rapport with the cook at the nearby taco stall. We'll be back for more tomorrow... delicious!

But the main highlight has to be sitting under a palm umbrella by the riverfront at the Lamanaii Riverside Retreat. Warm sun, a cool breeze, a cold beer and great company. Who could ask for anything more?

This feels like when you've just met someone special... it's the start of something.


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Location:Orange Walk Town, Belize

Sunday 5 February 2012

Miami is THE BEST!

Well according to our half-Spanish, half-Cuban shuttle bus driver to the hotel anyway! We're going to have to take his word for it though as we don't have any time to do it justice.

One thing it definitely isn't the best at is airport signage. We expect to struggle with transport arrangements in Guatemala but Florida has already proved challenging enough!

But having arrived at our hotel, we could finally reflect on how lucky we are. A quick glimpse at Twitter is enough to make you realise how today could have turned out for us i.e. 6 hours queuing at Heathrow to rebook a flight.

Now we're back after a quick bite to eat and have crept into our incredibly comfy twin queen-sized beds with plumped up pillows to watch the end of the Superbowl. Not likely to be a blueprint for the rest of our trip but definitely a relaxing way to kick things off!

Next stop Belize.

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Location:Miami, Florida USA

Snow, snow go away, come again another day!

The good news is that we both made it to Heathrow in one piece and that my parents also made it home again safely. One hairy moment for me when the Sainsburys HGV in front of us got stuck in the snow on a hill but my Dad is a driving genius and we managed to get past.

We're now relaxing in the Galleries Lounge in T5. Have I ever mentioned how much I love being a Silver Executive Club member! Our flight is currently delayed by 1 hour 20 mins to 11am but we've consoled ourselves with bacon rolls, fruit, yoghurt, coffee, tea, juice, pastries. If it is delayed even longer, Gemma and I might embark on a 'who can eat the most packets of Walker's shortbread' competiton... crazy, eh? Or perhaps that'll turn into 'how many packets of Walker's shortbread can we fit into our day packs as emergency rations' competion.

Anyway, no drama equals uncompelling reading. So, I'll leave it there and be in touch from Miami .... where it will be HOT and SUNNY and NOT SNOWING!

Saturday 4 February 2012

The biggest adventure of all

It's snowing! Normally  I would be relishing the prospect of snowball fights and building a snowman but instead I'm considering packing a shovel and heading over to Heathrow to volunteer as a human snow plough. If only one plane takes off from LHR tomorrow, please let it be the 0940 BA flight to Miami!

Still what's a day's delay when you've got 8 weeks...

I'm trying to pin down how I feel right now but I'm finding it hard to articulate. All I know is that I have butterflies in my stomach and a huge smile on my face.

I think that mostly I feel thankful. For this wonderful opportunity. For my Mum, Dad, Richard and Marie for their incredible love and support (and Mum more specifically for the yummy steak and dumpling stew she just cooked me as my 'last meal'!) For the bestest friends in the world who made our send off last night so special. And for Gemma,  who is always there for me and who has made this biggest adventure of all a reality.

These two amigas are about to have the time of their lives!

Hasta luego :)