Sunday 19 February 2012

Am I becoming a bus bore?

Over the past two days it has become obvious to me why the Guatemalan people take their religion so seriously. Miracles are performed daily by 'chicken' bus drivers who against the odds somehow manage to negotiate crumbling road surfaces and perilous corners to get their passengers to their destinations alive. And they don't do it by halves, hurtling past other traffic at great speed whilst yanking the chain to blast their horns. Oh, and with twice as many people on the bus than actually fit!

Apparently I'm not the only one to have spotted the need for a strong faith when embarking on bus travel here. Both yesterday and today we've had missionaries animatedly preaching the word of God to us from the front of the bus. As well as umpteen food vendors jumping on to sell their wares at any opportunity. And at times both competing together with the shouts of the bus conductor and whatever music the driver fancies listening to.

Breaking down isn't an issue for these miracle workers either. Out comes the tool box and after a few tweaks with the right spanner, you're on your way again.

I don't think the smile left my face the whole 7 hours we've spent on buses in the last 48 hours. The adrenaline junkie in me has definitely had her fix and there was just so much to see both on the bus and from the window that I was continually entertained. I even spent a cosy hour wedged in between two young men who'd had the foresight to wear woolly jumpers that kept my arms nice and toasty!

The bus ride would have sufficed in itself but our destination, Chicicastenango (which I can now spell and say correctly... I think) also turned out to be extraordinary. The town is famous for hosting Central America's biggest and most vibrant indigenous market.

The contrast between yesterday when we arrived and checked into a hostel for the night and this morning when we rose early to watch the traders set up could not have been more marked.

Yesterday we struggled to find an open cafe or restaurant for lunch and the town seemed sleepy and quiet. Whereas this morning it was impossible to move for stalls selling anything and everything you could ever possibly need.

It was a total feast for the eyes, ears and nose! Beautiful and fragrant flowers, local women mixing dough and making tortillas, traditional Mayan ceremonies taking place on the church steps, old women and children alike carrying huge bundles on their heads... we witnessed it all and much more besides.

Wonderful people watching and a real slice of real life. I even did a bit of bargaining in Spanish for a couple of trinkets. My Granny would have been proud!

I'm not entirely sure that my internal organs are yet to return to their rightful positions but that seems a small price to pay for such a rich experience,

As Gemma said earlier, "This feels more like travelling and less like being on a Caribbean holiday!"

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Quetzeltenango, Guatemala

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