Home sweet home?

Jess just asked me whether I was sad to be going home.

After a moment's reflection, my answer was, "Not sad to be going home, no... just sad to be leaving." Does that make any sense?

For starters I can't wait to see you lot. Technology has made it so easy to keep in touch, what with Skype and WhatsApp and email, but, however good it is, I am looking forward to some un-pixellated smiles and some proper hugs that I can feel. So, start limbering up guys!

Oh, and a cup of tea would be nice too, if it wouldn't be too much trouble?

I'm pleased to report that I'm keeping a promise that I made before I left to come back brighter, stronger and happier. Mission accomplished! I'm me but in HD :)

And I intend to try to keep another promise... to engage in a period of calm over the rest of the spring and summer - no adventures, no mad challenges, no life-changing decisions for a little while. Wish me luck with that one!

I will be sorry to leave Central America and this travelling lark behind though. I believe that people are the sum of the experiences they've had and what they've taken from them... and I hope that I've learnt a lot.

But the final word has to go to my travelling companion, Gemma. Her insatiable curiosity, talent for negotiation, organising ability and beautiful smile have made this trip what it was. Awesome! Thanks Gem :)

That's all folks! Adios e hasta luego...

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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

And the winner is...

There is a clear winner in the best sunset of the holiday competition. Victory was snatched by the sun's slow descent into the sea on Monday 26th March, as witnessed from a log on the beach (with an ice cold G&T) outside La Princesca de la Isla on Big Corn.

The natural world really knows how to keep the best til last.

The water looked silvery like liquid mercury and the sky above was alive with the full spectrum of the rainbow. And it was made all the more atmospheric by the wispy clouds which absorbed the dying sun's rays and created a whole new colour palette of their own.

And having only just blogged about food not doing it for me, I then found myself in food nirvana. The Roman couple who own the guest house, produced mouth-watering Italian-inspired cuisine, including a cheese and mango chutney based appetiser which made me very, very happy. The tiramisu was rich and chocolatey and melted in the mouth... and did I mention the pasta...? Delicioso!

So, today is in essence our last full day as we fly back to Managua tomorrow and then back through Miami to London on Thursday/Friday. As my thoughts turn to home, I know I will take with me so many cherished memories from Central America. How lucky I am!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

Practically perfect

I could get used to starting every Monday morning the way I started this one:

1. Wake up early feeling fully rested
2. Remember that there is nothing that I have to get up for and lie there for an hour daydreaming and enjoying the feeling of the cool white sheets on my skin
3. Stir from my thoughts and get out of bed to put on my bikini
4. Walk the 50m from our room to the water's edge. Observe that I am the only person on the beach.
5. Briefly contemplate running along said beach. Think better of it.
6. Wade out until the water is waist deep and then plunge into the cool water headfirst
7. Swim and float and splash to my heart's content.
8. Spy a really cool starfish in the water
9. Return to shore and dry off under a palm tree whilst a nice young man brings me a freshly brewed cup of coffee.
10. Be joined by two really good friends for breakfast

There's not much missing from that picture. I'd just like the National Theatre to come on tour here once in a while.

But before you think it's totally perfect on Big Corn, I thought I'd share with you some details of one of the harsher realities of 8 weeks' travel - hand washing...

A quick tally of how many days we had remaining and how many items of clean clothing I had left led me to the unfortunate conclusion that my hand washing liquid was going to come in useful one more time.

Once the scrubbing was over, I then had a difficult dilemma... is it bad form to hang out your underwear to dry from one of the pagodas at a smart Caribbean resort?

In the end, necessity overcame scruples and our little beach shack has been much improved by the addition of some colourful decoration!

In any case I am mighty glad that I live in a time and place where washing machines are commonplace. How our grandparents' generation coped without and managed to get everything so clean is beyond me. Although I haven't yet tried Gemma's interesting technique of stamping on things in the shower... perhaps that's the secret!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

Missing out

I think it was when my brother announced that the plate of food in front of him was "phenomenal" that I first realised I might be missing out on something.

Since then, I've watched and listened intently to other people's reactions to food and have concluded that I am, indeed, under-enthusiastic in my use of adjectives when it comes to describing whatever passes my lips.

Don't get me wrong, I enjoy a well-cooked steak or a nice roast chicken or a bowl of rich and creamy cheesy pasta but it doesn't ever send me into raptures. Food can be tasty and put a smile on my face but it is always the experience of dining out or with friends and family that I enjoy and remember more.

The reason I mention this is that I have this afternoon witnessed Gemma and Jess' pure and utter delight at tucking into the fresh lobster which is in plentiful supply here on Big Corn. It's a joy to behold them licking their lips and clearing their plates but I do feel a little pang of regret that food doesn't do that for me.

But watching this sunset does do it for me. I wish I could bottle it and take it home with me...


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Island life

I think you might have to send someone to drag me kicking and screaming off this beach on Wednesday. In fact I might bury myself in the sand and refuse to budge.

Look at it for goodness sake!




I am writing this from the shade of a palm tree under which Jess and I have retreated from the full glare of the midday sun. And we're pretending to only be a little envious of the deep, even golden-brown colour Gemma's skin is turning as we watch her lie out in it! Humph!

It's called Picnic Beach and that turquoise water is every bit as inviting as it looks. It's like having a very large warm bath to swim in... which we don't have to share with anyone else. And when we emerge from the water after a swim, it is strangely reminiscent of that scene in Die Another Day with Halle Berry... any one of us could have played that role you know. She just got lucky!

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Location:Big Corn Island, Nicaragua

The best seat on the bus

And then there were three amigas! Jess has just arrived tired but cheery after her epic three-flight journey. She has brought with her Dairy Milk (thanks Avgi x), crossword books and gossip and we are generally delighted to have her with us.

Today I had the best seat on the bus from Rivas to Managua... perched on top of a cool box squished between the front seats and the driver's compartment. It had a panoramic view out of the windscreen and was the best spot for watching the comings and goings of all the other passengers. I even had an open window behind me providing a cool breeze down my back. And I only had to get up a few times to let the conductor retrieve a cold drink!

I was actually quite disappointed when a kindly, elderly gentleman signalled to me that he was soon to get off and I should make a beeline for his seat. A wonderful and animated but wordless conversation ensued based entirely on smiles and hand gestures but in the end I capitulated and plunged headfirst into his seat once he'd somehow wriggled his way out of it. His parting shot was to pat me on the arm and smile such that it lit up his whole face. If only everyone back home was so easy to please!

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Location:Managua, Nicaragua

A gap in the market

It's fair to say that tourism isn't as developed in Central America as it is in other parts of the world I've travelled to. That, of course, is part of the attraction in coming here but it also means that Gemma and I have spent the last six weeks spotting potential (and often gaping) gaps in the market. In fact, it's become a bit of a running joke.

What this region desperately needs is two intelligent, business-headed women with exquisite taste to sort it out!

Take our hotel here on Isla de Ometepe as an example. The location is spectacular - remote, lakeside, on the edge of a lush banana plantation, with beautiful unspoilt beach spreading out in both directions. And the building itself is attractive - sort of hacienda style with rocking chairs dotted about on cool terracotta-tiled porches.

But they've got the rest oh so wrong. It takes at least 45 minutes to walk to the next nearest restaurant, so the food here ought to be exceptional, right? It's not. In fact, I would struggle to call it mediocre. And it's expensive. We're having cookies and crisps and beer from our emergency supplies for dinner.

The service is chaotic and slow. And the decor in the rooms bland and uninspiring. Which is unfortunate as there's nowhere else to go after dark!

We're the only people staying here.

You want to knock their heads together and show them how the money could be rolling in with just a few tweaks here and there.

But, on second thoughts, I expect if I come back in 10 years time, this beach will be lined with well-run, commercially successful luxury hotels... and will be a lot worse for it. I take it all back... as you were folks!

Walking along 'our' beach this afternoon was good for the soul. We met just a few other people, all locals, doing their washing in the lake's fresh water or simply playing with their children. We also ran into all manner of farmyard animals... a pig, a goat, some hens... and some majestic horses taking respite from the afternoon heat. And it's all in the shadow of Ometepe's two awe-inspiring volcanoes - Concepcion and Maderas.

Carrying on around the headland we reached Ometepe's equivalent of the Costa del Sol. There must have been ooh about 5 hotels... and at least 6 or 7 tourists sunbathing on the sand. We found it all a bit much and retreated to blissful isolation.

Now where's that hammock? Time to work on my business plan...

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Location:Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua

Getting a move on

I'm writing this when I should be packing. We're moving on again in the morning to Ometepe and I need to get organised.

But I've kinda settled in to our cosy room with the stained glassed windows at this eccentric little hostel. It's split level, so I have my own mezzanine with a brass bedstead and the luxury of drawers AND hanging space. So I've spread myself out and made myself quite at home.

The friendly, quirky staff and the little pool just outside the door make it a very pleasant spot indeed... I can almost understand why the Texan upstairs has stayed 3 years!

But, unfortunately I have my own millions to earn before I can retire to warmer climes...

Surprisingly, no surprises on today's scenic boat tour around Las Isletas, the 365 pretty little islands in Lake Nicaragua purportedly formed by a volcanic eruption thousands of years ago. We just had to sit back and drink it all in from the comfort of our seats. (Which incidentally had the first lifejackets we've seen since we got here.) Quite a relief after gas masks and tarantulas...

Right, I spose I better get a move on. In 10 days I'll be home and won't have to pack again for a while. What a horrid thought!

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Totally batty!

It's late and we're just back from the Volcan Masaya National Park night tour.

As has become customary, the description of the tour only told half the story and it turned out to be a little more 'interesting' than we had anticipated.

Approaching the car park at the first crater we were visiting, I was amused to see signs requiring drivers to park facing downhill, away from the volcano's rim, to facilitate a speedy evacuation should things get out of hand!

And on getting out of the minibus, I was rather alarmed to be handed a gas mask. But it didn't take me long to put it on - I soon started coughing from the noxious combination of sulphuric acid and carbon monoxide in the air.

This crater continuously spews out its poison and it was intriguing to be able to stare directly into it's cavernous mouth. Briefly anyway!

We then climbed to the highest point in the fading light to see the last of the sunset and get a spectacular 360 degree view of the park and all its craters and lakes, plus the lights of Masaya town and Managua... both of which seemed perilously close to me!

Now that night had fallen, we were off to visit two lava tunnels which have sheltered indigenous peoples and Sandinista revolutionaries alike but are now home to lots of rather terrifying wildlife.

Having already gleefully pointed out a rather large spider and oversized cockroach, our guide cheerfully announced that the probability of a bat touching you in flight is 1 in 1,000.

"How many bats are in that cave?"

"35,000"

"Right..."

Cue me desperately trying to remember what Marie (a zookeeper and my future sister-in-law) told me about Central American bat species at our going away party... it was something important...

But for the third time this trip, I made a mental note to thank the travel nurse for convincing me to have that rabies jab :)

It was actually pretty cool. We turned off our torches and listened to the flutter and swooshing of bats flying around us and felt the breeze whipped up by their wings.

I'm fairly sure, my Mum's just fainted, so I better leave it there...!

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

The pursuit of Alegria

Alegria. Happiness. It turns out that it can be bought and it comes in the form of my very own rainbow-coloured hammock woven by the team at Tio Antonio, a non-profit organisation that provides employment opportunities for young people with disabilities or at high risk of social exclusion.

Now I can chill out on my deck at home and imagine myself back in Central America whenever I like. Assuming I can block out the noise of the Jubilee line and have invested in a patio heater!*

To complete the experience, whilst I contemplated my potential purchase (i.e. whilst Gem talked me into it), we sipped delicious smoothies at the neighbouring cafe, staffed entirely by young men and women who are deaf. And who proved that a genuine smile and a desire to connect can communicate more than a thousand words.

Granada has got it just about spot on. It does high-end and scruffy, order and chaos, pristine and crumbling in equal measure.

I like it here very much.

*BTW - I can hear you groaning from here Dad at the thought of having to help me fix it up! You don't have two strong hooks in the shed by any chance?

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

This English Rose is wilting

Happy Mother's Day! It is only still my Mum reading this after 6 weeks, right?

We somewhat reluctantly left the beach behind this morning to make our way to Granada. I loved that beach. I could have sat on the sand and watched the waves forever but that wouldn't have made very captivating reading on my blog. So, I left in the interests of literature ;o)

I was struck on the drive here by how resilient nature can be. I know this from experience being the proud owner of a peace lily that has survived in my 'care' for the last 12 years - conditions don't get any more hostile than that. But it still surprised me to see trees blossoming and roses in bloom, whilst I wilted and drooped in the back of the cab, greedily glugging down the last of what was now warm water I had brought with me.

On arrival, it took Gemma all of about 10 seconds to change into her bikini and plunge into our hostel's mini pool. She's fast that girl!

I wasn't far behind though and it was a truly delicious feeling to sit totally submerged in cold water.

The rest of the day so far has been spent getting our bearings in Granada. And we like what we see. Imposing churches, colourful cobbled streets and lots of busyness.

It's a good job it's small though, as it is impossible to walk anywhere fast in this temperature. My usual Putt-Eckford pace has been replaced by something altogether more sedate :)

Now, let the quest for an ice cold G&T commence...

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Location:Granada, Nicaragua

Sand between my toes

Today we travelled just 12 miles down the road from Leon to Las Penitas beach in search of a sea breeze.

Within minutes of our arrival, we had bagsied the best hammocks in the hostel (it's the German in me!) and were fully absorbed in a little sun worship.

Once I was fairly sure my skin was turning a nice shade of lobster red, I set off for a walk down the beach. I had forgotten what it was like to hear nothing but the crashing surf and feel cool water lapping at my feet and a breeze on my face. And very happy it made me too.

Strangely (and if I use a lot of imagination) it reminds me of my favourite place in the whole world - the beautiful coastline of North-East England and beaches like those at Alnmouth and Bamburgh. I think it's the wildness of the water and the lack of other people to disrupt my reverie. Although in Northumbria that's usually because the water's icy cold and it's bracing in the wind to say the least! But otherwise, they're pretty much identical...

I also noticed a strange phenomenon today. Gemma and I played a game of bananagrams. It's kinda like Scrabble but is also a test of mental dexterity and speed of thought. Let's just say we were both much better at it 6 weeks ago. Much better.

I'm gonna need lots of help at work to stop me daydreaming :)

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Location:Las Penitas, Nicaragua

A moment of perfect calm

Such moments are rare in life but I had one today sitting on a log in the sunshine looking out over Lake Asososca, following our swim. I soaked up the volcanic backdrop, the rippling surface of the lake, all the butterflies and dragonflies, the warmth on my skin... and made my peace with the world.

Gosh, that sounded a little philosophical, didn't it?! But indulge me, just this once ;)

Today I also adopted my own Jicaro fruit. I can't stand the taste but the fruit itself is so satisfyingly round and smooth and heavy, that it makes the perfect stress ball. Not that I'm remotely stressed... see above!

The only thing I'm lacking right now is a shower. Apparently the water situation in Leon is 'unpredictable' which means they try and conserve as much as possible. But when you're covered in dust and dirt, slooshing yourself with a bowl of water doesn't really cut it. Charlotte - that Sanctuary spa voucher you gave me for when I return "grimy and dishevelled" is starting to look like the most inspired gift ever. That'll be the voice of experience talking I suspect!

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Location:Leon, Nicaragua

More than meets the eye

We're hot!

And before you accuse me of stating the obvious (ahem!) I mean in the can't sleep, can't breathe, can't think kinda way... someone must have accidentally turned the thermostat up on Central America.

On Tuesday we reached Nicaragua, the fifth and final country on our adventure. We're staying in Leon, which keeps throwing up little surprises. Although not much to look at at first glance, we keep discovering little gems which are starting to lend the town real charm.

Today's five star moment was looking down on the town from the cathedral roof. It provided a whole new perspective and walking in amongst the domes and bell towers gave it a certain illicit edge.

The cathedral itself is due a lick of paint but its slightly shabby state sort of adds to it beauty and makes Central America's biggest church even more visually striking.

I also enjoyed visiting the town's art gallery. The works are cleverly curated around the pretty inner courtyards of two buildings and I found myself lingering longer than usual by some of the more modern pieces. I don't normally like (i.e I'm too ignorant to understand) modern art but here in Nicaragua it seemed to make more sense to me than it would in Paris or Rome. A few paintings, and especially one by an artist called Guillen, were really very beautiful.

Tomorrow we have opted to swim in a crater lake - Ososceca - in a desperate attempt to cool down. Apparently it's an easy 45-minute hike to get there... hmm, why do those words now fill me with a little trepidation?!

(written 14 Mar)

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Location:Leon, Nicaragua

Finding pleasure in small things

Today is not really blog-worthy. It mostly involved a tiresome bus journey from Juayua to San Salvador, finding a hotel in a 'safe' part of town that wasn't the Sheraton, Hilton or Intercontinental, and eating lots of junk food.

However, having successfully bought bus tickets to Managua, we amused ourselves by thinking of the many ways we could keep ourselves entertained this afternoon. We could play bananagrams! We could repack our bags! We could drink Coca Cola! We could look back at all of the photos we've taken!

But Gemma hit the jackpot when she gleefully announced, "and I could shave my legs!" Now it doesn't get much more exciting than that. Although, I might sign off now to go and cut my toenails...

P.S. This day was not improved by the fact that I caught the last ten minutes of the Arsenal v Newcastle match. You got lucky this time Dad/Richard!

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Location:San Salvador, El Salvador

Today Mum, I did something stupid!

Well it was bound to happen sometime. But in my defence, I didn't have much choice and I am still alive and in one piece, give or take a few scratches.

In the words of the hostel owner when we enquired about this 7 waterfall hike just outside Juayua, "all you have to do is walk."

He must have *forgotten* the bits where you rappel down sheer rock faces and waterfalls, scramble over slippery, smooth rocks, fight your way through thick undergrowth, clamber over steep hillsides with massive drops to one side... I could go on...

The really, really stupid bit was repelling down one particular waterfall. Now, I enjoy rock climbing and abseiling but that's because I'm safely fixed into a harness and know I can only drop a couple of metres at most. I'm less comfortable just holding on to a sopping wet rope and putting blind faith into stepping backwards into gushing water, where I can't even see any footholds. Craziness!

However, massive amounts of respect and admiration go out to Gemma. I like a good adrenalin rush but this was hard core and to do it when you're scared of heights... well, that's something else entirely. Amazing!

So was it worth it? Hmmm...

On balance (and from the safety and comfort of this hammock), I'm going to say 'yes'. Fairytale waterfalls in pristine woodland.

Would I do it again? No.

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

A sting in its tail

Last night as I was leaving the bathroom, my eye was caught by a particular detail of our wall mural. Except that there was something not quite right about it. It was almost too realistic, 3D in fact, and looked very much like a scorpion... and nobody PANIC!!!!

At this moment both Gemma and I played to our strengths. Within an instant she was googling 'El Salvador scorpions' and I was out of the door looking for a man to sort it out for us (and mentally making a list of people back home I could call at 4am if I failed to find one).

In the end, a girl who works here at the hostel gamely swatted it at arms length with her sandal whilst spraying it with some kind of poison. The crunching noise as she then stamped on it was, well, crunchy to say the least!

You'll be pleased to hear that Gemma's research revealed that it wouldn't have killed us (reassuring) but that the sting of the Salvadorian species is similar to that of a wasp. I still went to bed tightly wrapped in my cotton sleeping bag and checked my shoes before I put them on this morning!

Today we have taken it easy, exploring both Juayua and the neighbouring town of Ataco at a leisurely pace.

The best things in life are free and we proved that yet again by spending a very enjoyable 15 minutes watching 3 boys play football in Juayua's main square with one of their Dads. A lot of skill on display and four pairs of sparkly brown eyes :)

Which brings me on to Salvadorian people in general. When I met Tom's friend, Mario, who hales from San Salvador, I was instantly struck by his warm, bright and positive persona. But I'm starting to wonder if this charm is actually a national trait. Everyone has been anxious to make us feel welcome and to help us out whenever we look a little bewildered (which happens to me quite a lot!) There is no better reason to visit this fascinating country.

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

"Aspire not to have more but to be more"

I have had this inspiring quote up on the wall in my study for a number of years now and today I found out a little more about the man behind the words: Monsignor Oscar Romero, the outspoken Archbishop of San Salvador, who was very publicly assassinated whilst giving a sermon at the height of the civil war in 1980.

He is revered by Salvadorians for the way he fought for the rights of the poor against both the government and his own Catholic Church and people here are shocked and saddened that he is yet to be made a Saint by the Vatican for what they see as his martyrdom.

It's a powerful story and all the more so for its recency. I find it difficult to comprehend that the people we are encountering each day have experienced such violence and oppression within their lifetimes. The country goes to the polls on Sunday, so it will be interesting to be here to see who comes out on top: the leftist FDLN party who were formed out of the guerilla movement or the right wing party (sorry, name temporarily escapes me!) It's also fascinating that there is a ban on the sale and consumption of alcohol from midnight tonight until midnight on Monday to keep the peace during polling - can you imagine trying to police that in the UK?!

Anyway, enough politics. Back to my 8 week holiday ;)

What a scorcher today! We were warned this morning by our guide Rene that it was going to reach 40 degrees, so we were left questioning whether our decision to climb up El Salvador's highest active volcano in the midday sun fitted into my Mum's category of 'doing something stupid'. But we decided that us English women weren't going to be put off by a bit of sunshine and pressed ahead as planned.

So, today we climbed Volcano Santa Ana. Which pleased me a lot as my dear friends had a little baby girl who they named Ana on Wednesday evening. A happy coincidence!

It was a glorious (to steal Gemma's word!) hike. A lovely steady incline and views from the top which were reward indeed for our labours. A deep crater lagoon to one side which was a colour I can't even describe and a vast panorama to the other side of Lago Coatepeque and Volcan Izalco (which looks exactly like the volcanoes I remember from my school science textbooks). Mum - it was definitely 'scenery'!

After our speedier descent, we treated ourselves to a late lunch and a swim in Lake Coatepeque's crystal clear, cold water. Very welcome!

And tonight we find ourselves in Juayua (pronounced Why-ooo-er!) in a very cool hostel called Anuhuac at the start of the Ruta de las Flores, the art and craft centre of El Salvador. We have a massive colourful mural on the wall and one of the characters is winking at me as I write :)

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Location:Juayua, El Salvador

Today is a good day

Serendipity. I love that word and it sums up today entirely. And it was very welcome after a couple of days of bus hell.

Waking up in Suchitoto where we didn't need '24 hour security' (i.e 17 year old security guard with big gun) was a good start and things just fell into place from there. We met all the right people who have helped us shape the rest of our stay in El Salvador.

But as for today, we (well I say we but it was Gemma really) successfully negotiated a room in the most beautiful hotel in town (Las Puertas) at half their advertised rate. As a result, I am writing this from the comfort of my own four poster bed in an immense colonial-style room which has its own balcony overlooking the town's main square. And a hot, powerful shower complete with white fluffy towels. I haven't felt so clean in five weeks!

But our room is just one of today's highlights...

For lunch we had the Salvadorian speciality, pupusas, which are basically corn or rice flour tortillas stuffed with a filling of your choice. The special bit about these particular pupusas though was that we made them ourselves under the guidance and supervision of a wonderful Salvadorian lady, who happens to be the wife of an American who has settled here. We had so much fun kneading dough, mixing fillings and slapping the tortillas in our palms as we've seen other women do so many times on our travels. Much to my delight (and surprise), I seemed to be quite good at it, which many of you will confirm is a first when it comes to cooking! The fact that we didn't speak the same language was no obstacle at all and we very much enjoyed tucking into the fruits of our labours.

This afternoon we took a trip out on Lake Suchitlan, a haven for migratory birds. Now, if I was a bird watcher I could now amaze you with the names of all the different species we spotted but, as I'm not, you'll have to make do with 'we saw a lot of cool birds and some awesome scenery' ;o)

Oh, and we met a really nice Canadian called Scott who bought us a beer and then joined us this evening on our outing to El Necio bar... described affectionately in my guide book as a 'leftist dive'. We discovered lots of Che Guevara memorabilia, a sweet barman called Oscar and two more Canadians. And a lot more fun.

Gosh, the church bells have just informed me that it's midnight. Better sign off as a busy day awaits tomorrow...

But, wait, I thought I'd shock you all with a second (and no doubt last) photo of me. I was very proud of my pupusas!

Karen: this one's for you as I know you don't believe a word I say and want to see me in the flesh!



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Location:Suchitoto, El Salvador

One bus too many

You know I like buses but you can have too much of a good thing. Especially when the bus is cramped, hot and going to take 8.5 hours to reach its destination. Still, I oughtn't complain. The bus left on time and wasn't waylaid by any demonstrations.

We did have a little bit of excitement at the border control into El Salvador at El Poy. The immigration official who boarded the bus spent a good five minutes scrutinising my passport on the bus and then disembarked and wandered off with it leaving me sitting on the bus. I didn't think I'd behaved that badly at the Salvadorian Embassy when Gemma and I visited them in London in January! In the end they obviously decided I didn't pose a major threat to national security and let us go on our way.

On arrival in San Salvador, we hot footed it to another bus terminal to catch the public bus to Suchitoto. Still hot and cramped but much more entertaining with more of the hustle and bustle we'd grown accustomed to in Guatemala.

What we've seen out of bus windows bodes well for El Salvador. Now we're looking forward to exploring for real.

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Location:Suchitoto, El Salvador

A day to remember and forget

This morning we didn't even bother to get up to find out if the 6.20am ferry was leaving for the mainland. We could hear the wind howling and the rain lashing against the window from the comfort of our beds, so were able to make a safe assumption that it wasn't.

And when we visited the ferry office to ask about the afternoon departure, the disappointing answer was 'maybe tomorrow... perhaps.'

Desperate times call for desperate measures. Tempting though it was at this point to stand in the middle of Main Street and scream 'get me off this island!', we managed to stay calm and do what any sane person would do in our situation: charter their own plane to take them back to the mainland. Well we lived on Utila in style, we thought we might as well leave it with a flourish!

Now, I thought our plane from Orange Walk to Caye Caulker was small. But this one only had 4 seats (including the pilot's) and just about enough room for our backpacks. Oh yes, no vomit comet for these amigas... instead we soared over the island and turquoise waters back to La Ceiba - and not a sick bag in sight!

Things were definitely looking up!

But not for long...

Having taken a taxi to the bus terminal (it's now about 11.30), we were told that the bus scheduled for 2pm to San Pedro Sula was delayed because it had been prevented from crossing a bridge on it's outward journey by a demonstration. It was possible that it would get through later in the day and leave again for San Pedro in the evening but they couldn't be sure.

So, we decided to go back to the airport and see if we could get a flight to San Pedro (money now being no object!). There weren't any.

Anyway, to cut a long story short, having reached dead ends on all other options, we ended up back at the bus terminal waiting for the 'possible' bus. Doing our best not to be grumpy and irritable or to stand in the middle of the bus station screaming 'get me out of this country!'

The 'possible' bus did show at 4.30pm and we could have kissed the bus driver and all our fellow passengers. Now we only had to negotiate the small problem that we were on our way to one of Honduras' most hostile cities with no hotel booking and arriving in the dark.

As it turns out, I needn't have worried. We played it safe and picked out a reasonably pricey hotel (budget out of the window) and a very kindly taxi driver deposited us there safely. And the hotel receptionist couldn't have been more friendly and helpful.

So, now to sleep, as we fully intend to be on the 7am bus outta here to San Salvador.

Tomorrow's another day :)

P.S. Clarification on yesterday's blog entry. Those are not my favourite music tracks just the ones that I associate with certain significant moments or periods in my life... actually not sure if that's better or worse. Anyway, I told you not to judge me ;)

P.P.S. And I know it's 'love in a hopeless (not strangest) place' - blame it on cabin fever!

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Location:San Pedro Sula, Honduras

Stranded in paradise...

... except it feels a lot less like paradise when it's blowing a gale and chucking it down with rain. And no boats are leaving for the mainland.

When I was in Cornwall last September, I visited the lighthouse exhibition at the National Maritime Museum and tried to imagine what it would be like for the lighthouse keepers of old during a storm. Well, now I don't have to imagine any more!

Ok, maybe I'm being a little melodramatic but it's more fun that way. We're actually almost enjoy playing 'shipwrecked' and stocking up on crisps, cookies and chocolate bars. Well, it is an emergency!

So, in the absence of any other form of entertainment, I've amused myself by thinking about what my desert island discs would be. Try not to judge me... each has a story but I'm not daft enough to reveal them on here!

1. You are my sunshine - My Mum
2. Walk like an Egyptian - The Bangles
3. One - U2
4. Sunflower - Paul Weller
5. Angels - Robbie Williams
6. Perfect Day - Lou Reed
7. Don't wanna miss a thing - Aerosmith
8. Ruby Red - Heather Nova
9. Don't go back to Dalston - Razorlight

And don't worry Avgi, I haven't forgotten 'our' song ;o)

10. Love in the strangest place - Rhianna

For my book, I'll take the Oxford English Dictionary. Think of all the new words I could learn...

And, as for my luxury, it's gotta be a Nespresso machine!

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Location:STILL Utila Island, Honduras

Lazy daze

Can someone tell me what time it is? Or even what day? And what's my name again? I'm kinda losing track...

Yesterday we did nothing. Absolutely nothing. Glorious nothing. So much nothing that the swim we took off the pontoon felt like exercise. From which we had to recover by doing more nothing.

Well it is the weekend and we deserve a rest...

The 15 minute walk to the other end of town for dinner was exhausting, so we sensibly broke the journey up on the way home with a rum punch at Babalus and a hypnotic half hour staring at the fish in the aquarium.

This morning, there were a few clouds in the sky and the wind had got up a bit more (tut!), so I grabbed my one chance of not being burnt to a crisp and went and hired a bike to explore the island.

It was a really lovely ride. Several iguanas scuttled out of my way and lots of dragonflies and butterflies flew alongside me. The north side of the island is equally beautiful and a lot quieter with some lovely sandy beaches. I only turned back when I realised that I was essentially mountain biking (they didn't bother to use tarmac out of town) and that I hadn't seen another soul for about 3 miles. Utila's meant to be safe but I have so many of your warnings ringing in my ears...

The only other news I have to report is that I've nearly finished Wolf Hall (Vanessa - it's excellent!) and I'm getting much better at getting in and out of a hammock.

Tomorrow, we have to drag ourselves away from paradise. El Salvador - you better be worth it!

Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Out of my depth

I'm not very good at breathing. I mean I guess I must be passable at it... I'm alive... but I've still got a lot to learn.

One of my main problems with breathing is that I stop doing it every time I concentrate really hard on something. It's like in order to fully focus, I have to hold my breath. Until I'm red in the face and about to pass out.

Perhaps now my fear of diving is starting to make a little more sense?

But, I can be pretty single-minded when I want to be and, having resolved to give it a go, I was going to give it my best shot.

Kareina, my instructor was very sweet and, as it turns out, incredibly patient! Having taken me through all the theory (no. 1 rule: never stop breathing - eek), it was time to get kitted up and in the water.

I guess I should have taken the hint when I managed to put my wetsuit on the wrong way round. Not the most auspicious start...

But once in the water, things were looking up. Apart from feeling very clumsy and not in control of my own limbs, I managed to hold it together and start to descend by deflating my jacket and using the regulator to breathe. It was very weird being so aware of my breathing - it was so noisy and I hadn't been expecting all the bubbles!

Once underwater, I had to perform three emergency procedures. The first two involved taking the regulator out and putting it back in again. I have to admit that it took a lot of stern talking to myself before I mastered these tasks. But master them I did, receiving a divers' 'high-five' from Kareina as a reward.

But it was the third procedure, clearing my mask of water, that defeated me. It sounds simple but I must have tried 20 times and every time it just filled up with even more water! And I know that on several of these occasions it was because I'd stopped breathing... well, I was concentrating so hard on all the other things I had to remember!

So, in the end I had to give up as we ran out of time. I hate giving up but I guess that sometimes you have to accept your limits. Maybe with a little more time (and money) I'd have conquered it... but maybe not... we'll never know! Sorry Sabra!

Of course, the slightly frustrating thing is that the likelihood of me ever having to do any of those emergency procedures for real is very remote but they obviously can't take that chance.

Overall, I think my brain just can't compute diving. I mean anything that requires that much effort and equipment just in order to breathe doesn't seem quite right to me! Maybe I'll stick to hiking from now on...

So, no tales of turtles or whale sharks from me. But I loved hearing about Gemma's dive over freshly-made take-away pizza on the veranda this evening. This is one experience I'll have to enjoy vicariously through her :)

(written 2 Mar)

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Taking the plunge

Now that we're fully signed up members of the jet-set, Gem and I chartered a boat yesterday to come and collect us from our pontoon and take us to one of the small uninhabited islands off Utila, Water Caye.

Ok, so maybe it wasn't quite that glamorous... we got Old Tom to take us in his rustic (rusty) little fishing boat. But he did pick us up from our pontoon.

Water Caye turned out to be tropical island paradise. Turquoise water, pale golden sands, pelicans fishing, breeze blowing... I wouldn't believe it myself if I didn't have the pictures to prove it.

The boat ride back was hilarious... well for about ten minutes anyway. The wind had got up and the waves were rather larger than they had been... and as it turns out larger than Old Tom's fishing boat. Every couple of minutes, we would get a face full of salt water as a wave crashed over the boat. Refreshing! Unfortunately it meant that we arrived home at the Lighthouse looking like a couple of drowned rats, which wasn't really in keeping with the Hollywood image we're trying to carry off!

Last night, we sampled Utila's nightlife. I'd been warned it was party central by the youngsters (!) I'd met on the Pacaya trek. Well, it's no Soho, but it is a lot of fun. There is one particularly cool bar (presided over by a consistently inebriated barman... quite a character!) which has part of the floor cut out to reveal the ocean below, complete with its own little miniature ship. You can see loads of fish swimming around and the odd feeding frenzy when some leftovers get tossed in.

We had got together with Rachel and Helen (from our sailing trip) and helped them to celebrate the last night of their five week trip. We even had a little pre-party party on our veranda at the Lighthouse. Giggle!

Right now I am psyching myself up for today's challenge. I've decided to literally take the plunge and am signed up for Discover Scuba Diving. I have a strong suspicion I'm going to freak out and start crying like a baby but I make it a rule to try everything once and, if I'm going to try diving, Utila's the place to do it! Wish me luck...

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras

Location, location, location

This morning we were both very happy to arrive at our home for the next five nights: the Lighthouse on Utila, one of Honduras' Bay Islands.

Happy for a number of reasons:

1. Because we had spent nearly 16 hours on a bus the previous day crossing mainland Guatemala and Honduras to get to the Caribbean coast. Now, you know I like a bus, but even I draw the line at 16 hours. And this bus was boooorrrriiinngg after all our entertaining chicken bus rides. There are only so many packets of crisps you can eat.

2. We stayed in a 'questionable' establishment in the port town of La Ceiba on arrival last night. Let's just say we were glad that we arrived at 10pm and left again at 8am the next morning. (Don't worry though Mum - no bed bugs!)

3. We had been given a great tip by Tasmanian Rob, who I met on the Pacaya trek. Most people get the public ferry from La Ceiba to Utila... which has the dubious honour of being known locally as the Vomit Comet because of the amount of sea sickness it induces. But Rob told us about another new little boat service called the Utila Island Express. It is cheaper and, as a single hull boat with access to fresh air, much less likely to turn you green at the gills.

4. We were the only passengers on said Utila Island Express, so we got a little taste of the high life when Captain Junior offered to drop us off directly at the Lighthouse's pontoon rather than at Utila's main dock. We're really rather good at the flash bit of flashpacking!

5. Oh, and on the crossing, I had been given cause to shoot out of my seat and make unintelligible squealing and flapping noises at Gemma. Three dolphins had come alongside the boat and jumped in and out of the water in beautiful synchronicity... you know, like they do in the telly when David Attenborough is on. Apparently it isn't CGI. Still can't quite believe it!

But the main reason we are happy to be here is because of the Lighthouse itself. We have a beautiful room with french windows which open out on to a deck with a sea view. And a hammock. And a kitchenette (hot milk on my cereal for brekkie!). And a bath. And a comfy bed with pristine white sheets.

So, this afternoon I did a little bit of work on my other bridesmaid duty. No, not learning my reading, but trying to address the pale lines from various tops criss-crossing the 'tan' on my upper body. Don't want to ruin the photos! It's tough but got to be done...

(written on 29 Feb)

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Location:Utila Island, Honduras